Today, early in the morning, I did my first flight. It was awesome!!

You Tube video of the takeoff and landing of the first flight: First Flight

Had my Airworthiness Inspection today. DAR Ted DeSantis issued a Special Airworthiness Certificate for Sonex 1462 N462SX.

Next up is the first flight of N462SX.
More to follow...

Misc to do items to finish up.

Worked on routing and securing wiring in the engine area. Also Ron Smith EAA Tech Counselor did a final inspection.

Worked on routing and securing wiring in the engine area.

Worked on routing and securing wiring in the engine area.

Worked on routing and securing wiring in the engine area.

Worked on routing and securing wiring in the engine area.

Worked on routing and securing wiring in the engine area.

Fabricated and installed a cover to place at the back of the right side baffle. This covers a hole in the engine case where the starter is located. Also fabricated a angle to support the throttle and mixture cables at the front bottom of the engine

Completed fabricating and installing the baffle seals across the front of the engine. It has a nice tight fit.

Flipped the bottom baffle seal on the oil cooler inlet. Found some small oil leakage around the oil screen plate. Changed and torqued the nuts on the oil screen plate.

Finished baffle seals for oil cooler inlet. Need to flip the bottom seal. It sticks up into the flow of air.

Worked on baffle seals for oil cooler inlet.

Up drilled and de burred the holes for the rubber seals on the back and side baffles. Riveted the back and side rubber seals in place. Used the band saw to cut the remaining backing strips.

Made the backing strips for the back and side baffles. Cut the rubber baffle strips for the side and back baffles. Pilt drilled and clecoed the rubber and backing strips in place for the side and back baffles. Checked the cowl for proper fit with the side and back baffles. They appear to have a nice tight fit.

Worked on trimming engine baffles. Used paper clips to gauge the proper gap between the baffle fence and the cowling.

Used a plumb bob and remeasured all the ARM lengths. Installed the Data Plate on the fuselage. Drilled hole in canopy side rail for pin to secure canopy in closed and latched position.

Trimmed the exhaust pipes to be 2" out of the cowling. Measure ARM lenghts for the weight and balance.

Worked on trimming engine baffles.

Secured all the ELT wires. Antenna and remote wires. Did the post install tests. Both the main and remote switches activated and deactivated the ELT. Secured the wing lights wiring inside the cabin area. Also secured and added protection for the push to talk wires. Also secured to the inside of the cabin the pitot and static lines.

Installed the ELT antenna. Installed the ELT remote unit on the panel.

Finished fabrication of ELT structure. Installed the ELT structure.

Continued work on fabrication of ELT structure.

Worked on fabricating a structure to use to attach the ELT to the floor of the bagage area.

Worked on installing cotter pins in controls.

Worked on Aileron hinges and push rod connections.

Worked on Aileron hinges and push rod connections.

Worked on installing cotter pins in controls.

Continued work on Ailerons

Continued work on adjusting flaps and ailerons.

First Taxi
You Tube Video First Taxi

Transponder Mode C certified

Continued work on adjusting flaps and ailerons.

Installed the Pitot and Static probe on the wing. Finished installing cotter pins on left aileron and left bell crank.

Left Flap - Installed cotter pins. Tightened the check nut. Left Aileron - started installing the cotter pins. Tightened the check nut.

Adjusted the aileron push rods so the ailerons would be in the neutral position. Connected the aileron push rods to control stick assembly.

Installed cotter pins for flaps. Adjusted flaps to neutral position.

Finished balancing the left aileron. Installed the wing gap seal.

Installed the painted wings and flaps.

Worked on balancing the left aileron

Installed N numbers. Installed the painted wheel pants and gear leg fairings.

Pictures of MGL EFIS.

Test Run for engine.

The painters returned my finished fuselage.

Attached the 22ga steel weight to the aileron counter weight. Checked the level of the aileron. Added some washers to get the proper level. It is now about 1/8th inch up from level. I will need to level the other aileron when I get it back from being painted. Put the flaps and aileron on the wings for safe keeping. Also put the aileron push rods back in the wings.

Leveled the work bench. Setup on work bench to level the aileron. Fabricated a piece of 22ga steel to match the shape of the counter weight arm. Appears this will be about the right amount of added weight to balance the aileron. Sprayed with self etching primer to protect the steel.

Unwrapped and inspected the painted wings and flaps. Only got back one of the ailerons. Put back the wing tip lights and fairings. Started checking the balance of one of the painted ailerons. Appears some weight will need to be added.

Replaced the main body on the Aerovee Injector. Sonex sent me the replacement because of the sticking. Installed the injector. Also cut and installed a new heavier throttle cable.

Got the wings back from the painter

Put the Passenger Warning Label on the panel in front of the passenger seat. Routed and secured the trim cable and com radio cable. Secured the transponder cable. Fabricated and installed two attach points for the interior side panels. Drilled, tapped and installed screws for four of the six attach points for the interior side panels.

Removed the throttle cable from the aerovee injector. Checked the torque on the fuselage bolts for the aft bottom skin at the fuselage splice. Installed two nut plates on the firewall. These will hold the springs for the exhaust pipes and a clamp for the oil breather vent tube.

Removed some items to get ready for the painting of the fuselage. Wheel pants, gear fairings, lower exhaust pipes and oil breather vent tube. Also removed the aero injector and throttle cable. Sonex is sending a replacement body to see if that will fix the throttle sticking.

Fabricated and installed the crankcase breather tube in and out of the oil separator. Started the engine. Oil preasure was 38psi. Oil temp got up to 89 degrees. Throttle was completley stuck with the engine running. Without the engine running the throttle moves freely. The engine was running at about 1400 RPMs. After shut down no oil or fuel leaks were found.

Worked on determining why the throttle sticks. Removed the throttle cable. Checked move movement of the throttle with the cable straight. Still sticks. Not because of any bend in the cable. Removed the Aero Injector. Remove the bolts holding it together. Worked the cable to see why it is sticking. Nothing obvious. Removed the needle. Polished the needle. Installed the needle. The slide now moves freely. Put the Aero Injector back together. Installed the Aero Injector back on the engine. Installed the mixture and throttle cables. It now appears that the throttle moves smoothly.

Worked on fabricating the rudder cable fairings. C01-04. Enlarged cut out in fuselage for right rudder cable for better clearance. Installed fuselage access covers. Worked on programing the Xtreme EFIS EMS settings.

Fabricated the Flap Fairings. W01-02.

Worked on fabricating the rudder cable fairings. C01-04.

Attached the CHT wires to the RDAC module. Made and attached the oil Temp sensor wire to the RDAC module. Did the first engine start. The engine did start but there are several issues. The throttle does not move correctly. The engine idles rough. Will work on sorting out these issues.

Removed the wing tip lights and prepared the wings to go to the painter. Secured the exhaust pipes with the springs. Drilled a hole in the firewall and attached springs from the exhaust with a clamp. Installed the EGT sensors. Attached the EGT wires to the RDAC module.

Removed the quick drain valve. Found debris in the O ring. Cleaned and put back the quick drain valve. Leak/drip fixed. Removed the oil sender. Put some teflon paste on the treads of the oil sender. Put the sender back. Checked the ground continuity of the sender body to the engine bock ground. Ground connection is good.

Picked up the exhaust pipes from being ceramic coated. Bolted the exhaust pipes to the engine.

Put 1 gallon of fuel in the tank. Check for leaks to the shut off valves. Did the final connection and adjustment of the throttle and mixture cables. Pulled the mixture to the cut off position. Open the fuel shut off valve. Had on fitting at the gasolator leaking. Tightened the fittings on the inside fuel line. Drained the gascolator. The gascolator quick drain is now dripping. Turned off the shut off valve.

Installed a bolt in the bottom tail section at the tail skid. All fasteners are now installed for the aft bottom skin. Hooked up the oil pressure sender. Filled the engine with oil per the areovee manual instructions for initial oil fill. Also per the instructions used the starter to check for oil pressure on the EMS. After 3 10 second runs on the starter oil pressure was registering on the EMS.

Removed the wings so they would be ready for the painter.

Checked the valve adjustment. Continued putting everything back on the engine. Baffle fences.

Finished installing the new cylinders. Started putting everything back on the engine. Adjusted the valves.

Worked on replacing the cylinders.

Installed rivets for bottom fuselage skin.

Switched the prop bolts from AN5-40 to AN5-37.

Installed the rivets holding the fiberglass wing tips to the wings.

Switched the prop bolts from AN5-41 to AN5-40. They are still too long. Used extra washers as spacers. Ordered AN5-37 bolts.

Pictures - Photoshop of possible paint

Fabricated and installed a stiffener to the firewall by the gascolator.

Installed W20-01L Left Wing Doubler. Allowed extra space in the gap for Vans wing gap seal. Clecoed the doubler to the wing offset outboard by 1/2 inch. Used the spacer to mark a trim line on the doubler. Used snips to trim the doubler. Clecoed the doubler in the proper location. Installed the Vans wing gap seal to be sure the gap was OK. Installed the rivets holding the doubler to the wing.

Installed W20-01R Right Wing Doubler. Made a spacer from plexiglass to mark the gap. Allowed extra space in the gap for Vans wing gap seal. Clecoed the doubler to the wing offset outboard by 1/2 inch. Used the spacer to mark a trim line on the doubler. Used snips to trim the doubler. Clecoed the doubler in the proper location. Installed the Vans wing gap seal to be sure the gap was OK. Installed the rivets holding the doubler to the wing.

Worked on baffles. Located and drilled the holes in the exhaust for the EGT probes. Installed the EGT probes and checked for clearance from the cowl.

Worked on fitting and fabricating baffles. Stopped early because of thunder storm

Worked on fitting and fabricating baffles.

Checked the tracking of the propeller.

Put the cowling back in place.

Got the plane ready to be stored for the summer. This all the work I will do until sometime in the fall. The hangar is getting too hot for this old man ;)

Installed propeller.

Engine - Baffles. Continued working on the engine baffles.

Installed the flap control rods and hardware.

Worked on engine baffles.

Installed the wings with help from Roger. Thanks Roger!

Also put the Ailerons on the wings and connected the control rods for the Ailerons

Preparation for installing the wings tomorrow.

Installed the Aileron push rods to connection to the bell crank in the wings.

Gear - Main Gear Fairings and Pants. Did some fitting and trimming on the main gear fairings. Also trimmed a slight curve on the main gear pants. This allows access to the air valve stems without removing the pant. Also trimmed the pant where it meets the fairing.

Engine - Baffles. Continued working on the engine baffles.

Engine - Baffles. Continued working on the engine baffles.

Gear - Main Gear Fairings. Finished fabricating the main gear fairings. Installed the main gear fairings.

Did Service Bulletins.
ACV-SB-061714 - Replaced Cap Screws for Trigger Shaft Assembly.
ACV-SB-051415 - Check of Primary Ignition Modules.
Service bulletins were completed as required.

Set the prop hub to TDC for cylinder #1. This is need for installation of Propeller.

Install the Aerovee CHT Probes per the instruction sheet.

Placed the rear baffle in place to start the fitting.

Replaced the latch hook assembly. The original one had been trimmed too much and did not tightly hold the canopy. Used files to trim to get a good tight fit.

Installed the nose gear fairing. Trimmed the cowl for the fairing. Re installed the prop hub lugs. Made a tracing of the spacing of the prop hub lugs. Using the bolts for the prop matched up the prop spinner and prop hub to be sure the holes match.

Made the hinges for the fairings. Drilled and up drilled the holes for the fairing assemblies. Riveted and shaped the nose gear fairing.

Finished installing the nose wheel pant. Started work on the landing gear fairings. Cut out the sheet metal shapes.

Finished installing the screws for the canopy. Installed the canopy restraint cable.
Worked on trimming and fitting the nose wheel pant. I had to remove the nose gear in order to slide on the nose wheel pant. Installed the nut plates to hold the nose wheel pant. Still need more trimming to provide proper wheel clearance.

Finished installing the fresh air vents.
Installed the main gear wheel pants.

Made and installed bracket tabs to attach the interior side panels.
Made and installed a bracket to clamp the trim cable and com cable in place under the panel.
Started the installation of the side fresh air vents.

Up drilled the holes in the canopy. Drilled the counter sinks. Put the canopy back on the frame using machine screws. Need to order a couple more screws to finish.

Worked on canopy frame. Found that the side tube was slightly turned. This is what was causing the latch to bind. Made sure the side tube was flat when I riveted the corners.

Drilled four of the corner holes. Cut the hole for the canopy latch handle. Installed the latch handle. Worked on adjusting the latch to work properly. Still needs some more work.

Adjusted the bend in the aft bow to better conform to the turtle deck. Drilled the holes through the canopy and into both bows.

Adjusted the bend in the aft bow to better conform to the turtle deck. Removed the spacers I had placed for the aft bow. Made one smaller spacer for only one side. Made some wood spacers for both the front and aft bows. Sanded and trimmed the canopy a little more on the aft side. Match drilled the side trim to the side tube on the pilot side. Drilled the holes trough the canopy for the pilot side.

Bent the front bow to conform to the shape of the wind shield. Secured the side tube to the longeron with clamps. Cut a piece of scrap plexiglass and did a test run of drilling the canopy for the canopy hinge and side tube. It worked great with the supper dull drill bit. So I went ahead and drilled the canopy for the canopy hinge and side tube.

Drilled and tapped the hole for the alignment pin on the canopy latch. Installed the alignment pin.
Traced the aft curve on some card board. Finished bending the aft bow.
I had cut the bow a little short so I made a couple of 1/4 in spacers to raise the bow up to the correct height.
Test fitted the canopy with the aft bow.

Took some pictures of the brake lines to share on the forum.

Did some more trimming and sanding on the canopy.
Worked on bending and fitting the aft bow for the frame.

Continued Trimming cutting and sanding the canopy to fit the fuselage. Laurie continued to help.

With the help of Laurie I used the band saw to start cutting the canopy. We cut to the factory tape lines. I then sanded out the saw marks. Then put on new tape lines and cut the front and aft edges of the canopy. Sanded some more. Kept sanding and fitting the canopy to the fuselage.

Worked on the Canopy frame. Made the wood formers to hold the aft side of the canopy while being fitted.

Layed the canopy on the airframe to check the factory tape lines. They are more than adequate. Started assembling the canopy frame. Riveted the hinge to the side longeron. Made some tabs that the interior side panels will be attached to.

Installed the Southco Fastener for the front of the Cowling. Installed the the exhaust lips on the bottom of the cowling. Trimmed the lip around the prop hub to 1/4" per the instruction sheet. Worked on cleaning the bolt holes for the prop.

Fabricated and installed the fuel tank door on the cowling.

Sanded the filled holes. Installed with rivets the lower aft hinge on the right half. Drilled the hole for the gascolator and fuel tank vent line. Did some more sanding around the fuel filler opening.

Sanded the holes that where filled yesterday. Installed the side hinge halves with squeezed solid rivets. Filled the holes on the bottom aft right side from where that hinge was moved. Fabricated the metal exhaust lips.

Riveted some of the hinge halves to the cowling. Used squeezed rivets instead of the pulled rivets. Also filled the holes that will not be used. Roger helped me with these tasks. I also started bending some of the baffles.

Installed all the lower aft hinges. Trimmed aft lower edge of the cowling. Roger help to start a fiberglass layup for the location between the prop and the opening for the oil cooler.

Installed the lower center hinge. Cut the opening for the oil cooler air inlet.

Installed the top center hinge. Installed the Southco Fasteners at top of firewall.

Reworked the aft edge of each cowling half. Drilled new holes to make a better fit. Will fill the old holes in the cowling.

Worked on trimming bottom of cowling. Found I need to trim more on aft side of right side. I also have a gap on the front that will need to be filled.

Finished trimming the right cowling side. Installed bottom hinge half for the right side. Trimmed the left side cowling. Install the side hinge half. Started trimming the top centers to match both sides.

Trimmed center on right side cowl both top and bottom. Also trimmed bottom aft side. Made all the hinge halves and hinge pins.

Finished trimming the cowling where it meets the right side of the fuselage and the windshield. Made and celcoed in place the right side hinge.

Worked on trimming the right side of the cowling.

Made wood spacer for cowling installation.

Installed the windshield and machine screws to secure it. Again

Made more ot the parts on drawing D02.

Purchased a new can of Super 77 from Lowes. This can had more complete instructions on application. So I did the fabric on the glare shield again. I sprayed both the metal and the fabric. I let it set for around 2 to 3 minutes before I put the two together. I did it in three sections one at a time. First the top then each of the sides. So far it seems to be doing fine. We will see in time if it worked. I also made some of the parts for the canopy from drawing D02.

The glare shield fabric glue job failed. Removed the windshield. Removed the fabric. Cleaned the glue off the glare shield. Will try again.

Glued fabric to glare shield. Put the windshield back in place. Installed some of the machine screws. Need to wait for aircraft spruce shipment to finish installing the machine screws for the windshield.

Trimmed the aft edge of the windshield with the band saw.
Sanded all four edges of the windshield with 80 120 and 220 grit sand paper.
Drilled the holes in aft side of the windshield up to 11/64th.
Drilled the holes in the bow strap to #20.
Drilled the holes in the windshield Bow to # 29. Tapped the holes in the bow to 8-32.
Countersunk all the holes in the windshield.
Dimpled the holes in the fuselage side skins.
Put the windshield back on the fuselage. Put machine screws in the aft side of the windshield. Cleco the front side to the upper firewall.

Made a tool to make the hole locations for the windshield bow.
Inserted the windshield Bow Strap.
Measured the proper distance of over hang for the bow strap.
Marked and drilled to #30 size the holes at the windshield bow.
Marked for cutting the aft edge of the windshield.

Trimmed and sanded the front side of the windshield. Drilled the holes and clecoed in place the front and sides of the windshield.

Trimmed and sanded the sides of the windshield. Drilled holes to hold the windshield bow in place. Made blocks to help hold windshield to the bow. Also trimmed the strap on the firewall to allow the windshield to fit down next to the longerons.

Cut and Shaped Windshield Bow.
Trimmed the lexan windshield to the factroy cut line.

Trimmed fabric for glare shield. Laurie is going to finish the edges before I glue it to the glare shield.

Made another fuel tank vent line. The 1st one had a rather sharp bend that I did not like.
The new one has nice gentle bends. Should be better.
Painted the inside back side of the firewall that is above the glare shield.
Riveted the panel and sub panels in place.

Made and installed the vent line for the fuel tank. Also installed two more clamps to hold the brake lines. Also painted the sub panels that hold the headphone jacks.

Made and install the fuel line from the fuel flow sensor to the aeroinjector.

Put the lower rear skin back on with clecos and bolts. Installed the transponder antena. Put the throtle and mixture cables back in place.

Trim System.
Installed the Trim System.
Attached the rear spring and clamp. Ran the cable and cable conduit. Trimmed the conduit to length.
Attached the front spring. Made the cable link. Attached the cable to the front spring. Found the cable was rubbing on the flange by the seat belt attachment. Moved the hole for the cable conduit retainer to give clearence.
Finished intalling and adjusting the Trim Sytstem.

Trim System.
Installed Attach point for rear spring.
Drilled and installed conduit retainer for cable. Hydrualic brakes.
Installed two clamps to hold brake lines in place.

C08 Center Controls Install.
Finished Brake handle.
Worked on Flap Handle to get a better fit in the flap detent bracket.

L07 Hydraulic Brakes.
Replaces one of the compression fittings on the master cylinder that was leakinging.
Bleed the brale lines again.
Located and drilled the holes for the brake handle.

L07 Hydraulic Brakes.
Ran and connected the brake lines. Add DOT 5 Brake Fluid. Bleed the lines.

C08 Cneter Controls Install.
Located and drilled holes to attach flap detent bracket to spar tunnel.
C09 Center Controls.
Made new hinge pins for seat pan for attachment to the spar tunnel with the center controls.

L07 Hydraulic Brakes.
Drilled, debured and rivets to installed L07-11R&L Master Cylinder Mount Angles and L07-13 Master Cylinder Spacers. Up drilled holes and installed hardware and the master cylinder.

C08 Center Controls Install.
Installed rivets to hold Center Flap Mount Bracket.

C09 Center Controls.
C09-01 Flap Handle Assembly.
Drilled holes and installed hardware to make the assembly.

C09 Center Controls Detail.
C09-12 Flap Detent Bracket. Finished layout and fabrication.
C09-13 Brake Detent Bracket. Layed out and fabricated.
C09-02 Flap Handle. Reworked the C04-07 flap
handle to make the C09-02 flap handle. C09-05 Bushing. Made from bushing stock.

C09 Center Controls Detail.
C09-12 Flap Detent Bracket. Started layout and fabrication.

L07 Hydraulic Brakes.
L07-11R&L Master Cylinder Mount Angle.
L07-13 Master Cylinder Spacers. Fabricated from angle and bar stock. Drilled pilot holes.

E01 Electrical.
Installed the wiring harness for the lights.
Secured all the wiring under the panel.

E01 Electrical.
Finished wing wiring harness and connectors.
Reinstalled the V6 Radio.

E01 Electrical.
Started making the connectors for the wing wiring.

C01 Controls.
Put the Flap tube back in the fuselage.

E01 Electrical.
Finished the PTT switches.

C01 Controls.
Installed the control stick assembly.

E01 Electrical.
Installed the wiring for the 12v outlets.
Started installing the PTT switchs for the control sticks.

E01 Electrical.
Install the 12v outlets in the sub panels. Started the wiring for the 12v outlets.

C01 Controls.
Trimmed the seat pan to allow full back movement of the stick assembly.

E01 Electrical.
Laced the V6 Radio wire harness.
Installed the harness Increased the size of clamps already under the panel to allow the harness to attached along with other wire bundles.

E01 Electrical.
Finished cutting to final length, labeling and lacing wires from the SP-6 Compass, SP-7 AHARS and Transponder. Routed and attached the wires.

E01 Electrical.
Installed the transponder. Worked on wire routing and bundling.

E01 Electrical.
Changed the transponder wiring harness. Originally had a male sub-d contector. But needed a female Sub-D connector to attach to the transponder.
Worked on location of transponder and wire on the passenger side of cabin.
Placed the interior kit in place to check location.

Also today Ron Smith EAA Tech Counselor did a visit and report.

E01 Electrical.
Worked on wiring and attaching the AHARS.

E01 Electrical.
Made a mounting bracket for under the panel attached to underside of glare shield in the middle. Attached wires using clamps. Continued to organize the wiring into groups and bundles to attach to the brackets with clamps under the panel.

E01 Electrical.
Worked on bundling and lacing wires.

E01 Electrical.
Made Wire Harness Sub-D connection for Transponder.

E01 Electrical.
Worked on lacing wires.

E01 Electrical.
Installed bolts holding wires to the coils. Tested ignition and starter wiring with a VOM.

C01 Controls Installation.
Followed the general instructions for the elevator control system. Drilled the the three holes for the AN3-12A bolts holding the C03-05 Elevator Pushrod End Fitting to the C03-06 Elevator Pushrod.

E01 Electrical.
Made sub panels that hold headphone jacks.

E01 Electrical.
Worked some more on the tray for the SP-6 Compass. I riveted the tray to the cross tie.
I also installed the COM antenna.
I connect the wire harness to the V6 COM radio. I connect the power and ground wires for the harness. The receiver seems to be working fine.

E01 Electrical.
Made a mounting tray for the SP-6 Compass unit. I mounted it in the middle of the cross tie that also has the anchor for the shoulder belts.
I also reworked the control stick assembly and installed it in the fuselage.
I check for the best location for the SP-7 AHRS unit.

E01 Electrical.
Made wire connections for AHRS and Compass.
Connected AHRS and Compass to EFIS.

E01 Electrical.
Installed EFIS warning lights.
Installed OAT probes.

E01 Electrical.
Finished making the D-Sub wiring connection for the Compass and AHRS.

E01 Electrical.
Started making the CAN Bus wire connections.
Also started the D-Sub connectors for the compass and AHRS.

E01 Electrical.
Finished wiring for fuel level probe.
RDAC engine block ground.
Oil preasure wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Finished Ignition wiring.
Installed the fuel level probe and control module.

E01 Electrical.
Ignition wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.
Located, drilled and riveted in place two stand off brackets on the inside right side of the fuselage for the power wire bundle.
Finished installing the power wire bundle on the right side from the panel to firewall locations.
I disconnected the starter power for safety. I attached the ground cable to the battery.
I checked the function of the battery master and alternator master switches. Observed the function of the alternator warning light.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.
Trimmed 1/2 in off the back of the Instrument Panel Cross Tie to provide better clearence for the switch wires. I did this only were the switches are located. I will reinforce the cross tie at those locations when I decide where I will locate the head set jacks.
I also made some stand off brackets for the wireing attachment. I will rivet these to the inside of the fuselage. I can then attach the wire bundles with clamps to these brackets.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.
Made two stand off brackets that attach were the fuel stop brackets attach to the underside of the glare sheild. Drilled two holes in each bracket for attachment of clamps for the wire bundles.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued the panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
Continued panel wiring.

E01 Electrical.
I replaced the starter switch with one that has connections on the end. The original switch had connections that I thought might interferer with the CBs and other switches.
I made all the 14 GA wire runs. Regulator to the RDAC RPM input, Fuse Block to Starter Switch and Starter Switch to the Starter Soleniod.
I also decided to use 14 GA wire to make the connections from the Main Fuse Block to the Avionics Master Switch and Avionics Master Switch to the Avionics Fuse Block.

E01 Electrical.
I made the brass bus bar that connects the 3 circuit breakers.
Using 10 Ga wire I made the wires connecting
- 1 Alternator Disconnect Relay to the Alternator 20 AMP CB,
- 2 Battery Master Soleniod to the Battery 20 AMP CB and
- 3 Brass Main Bus Bar to the Main Fuse Block.

E01 Electrical.
I removed the control stick assembly and stick to idler pushrod to allow room and access.
I located and bolted in place the alternator disconnect relay.
I installed a clamp to hold the ground cable from the battery to the firewall ground block.
I also drilled a hole with a grommet in the firewall for the power wires.
I also made and installed wires from the regulator to the capacitor to the alternator disconnect relay and the ground block.

C01 Controls Installation.
Trimmed the stops on the C05-01 Control Stick Assembly so they would clear the landing gear attachment bolts.
Installed the C03-04 Stick to Idler pushrod.
Checked the placement of the SP7 Attitude Sensor. This was the reason I decided to install some of the controls now. To see where to place the sensor and wires etc.

C05-01 Control Stick Assembly.
I greased the bushings for the Horn Assembly and Stick Grip.
Installed the AN 4 Bolts holding the Horn Assembly and Stick Grips on the Control Stick Assembly.
I located and drilled the hole for the C05-07 Link Rod.
I reamed the holes on the Link Rod Assembly so the the bushings would rotate in the holes.
I greased the bushings and installed the AN 3 bolts holding the Link Rod to the Control Stick Assembly.

C05-01 Control Stick Assembly.
Used the arbor press to press the bushings into the C05-01 Control Stick Assembly.
I used a propane tourch and wire brush to heat and remove the powder coating on the C04-08 Horn Assembly where it goes into the bushings on the control stick assembly. I also used emery cloth to polish the area where the powder coating was removed.
I also wrapped some Emory cloth around some tubing to use to ream the bushing to get a proper fit.
I put the C04-03 Stick Grip and C04-08 Horn Assembly on the C05-01 Control Stick Assembly.
I drilled and up drilled to 1/4" size holes through the Stick Grip and Horn Assembly to bolt them in place on the Control stick Assembly.

G01 Fuel System Installation.
Fuel Line.
I made and installed a stand off for the fuel line. I used a bolt through the firewall, stand off and clamp to secure the middle of the fuel line.
E01 Electrical.
I attached 4 gauge welding wires from the positive lead of the battery to the master solenoid to the starter. I installed the ground tabs block to the inside of the firewall. I attached 4 gauge welding wires to the negative lead of the battery to the ground block. Also attached 4 gauge welding wire to the negative lead of the battery to the engine block to the starter.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Throttle and Mixture Cables.
I shortened the throttle cable housing to fit. I worked on adjusting the throttle cable attached at the throrrle quadrant. I used some temporary zip ties to see where the cables will go.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Throttle and Mixture Cables.
I drilled holes through the firewall and installed cable safes. I had to enlarge the hole in one of the cable safes for the throttle cable.
Aero Injector.
I enlarged the cable holding hole for the mixture cable. I installed the ball end of the throttle cable into the slide of the Aero Injector. I attached the Aero Injector to the intake manifold. I attached the mixture cable. Both cables are run but the throttle cable is not attached at the throttle quadrant.

G01 Fuel System Installation.
Fuel Tank.
I installed the fittings using Teflon paste. For the fittings going into the tank I only tightened them as tight as I could with only my fingers. If they leak I will try tightening them a little tighter with a wrench. For the fittings around the shut off valve I used a wrench to tighten them. I then only used my fingers to tighten the strainer into the tank.
Tank Installation.
I put the tank into the fuselage. I connected the tank straps with bolts to hold the tank in place.
Fuel Line.
I used a coat hanger to get a rough measurement and shape of the fuel line. I shaped and cut the tubing for the fuel line. I flared the ends of the fuel line. I attached the fuel line to the shut off valve and the 90 degree elbow at the gascolator.

G01 Fuel System Installation.
Fuel Tank.
I used some mineral spirits to rinse out the tank. I then took the tank home where I used the garden hose to fill the tank with water. I ran a lot of water through to rinse out any left over plastic dust and pieces. I filled and drained the tank twice. I put the tank in the hot garage where it would dry over the next two days.

G01 Fuel System Installation.
Panel.
I check behind the panel for any clearance problems. I removed the panel and cross piece from the fuselage.
Fuel Tank.
I increased the filler opening to where the stopper will fit properly. I checked to make sure that the filler stopper/cap will be lower than the access door. I cleaned out all the treaded fittings in the tank.

E01 Electrical and Avionics.
Panel Fuse Block.
I installed anchor nuts for attachment to the panel.
Panel.
I put every thing back into the panel. I put the panel back into the fuselage for a final check for any interference.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Oil Sump Plate.
I installed a plug in the extra hole in the sump plate. At this time I do not plan on using it for a return from the oil separator.
Oil Cooler.
I installed the bushings and nipples into the oil cooler for the hoses. I also installed the nipples into the oil pump for the hoses. I made the two hoses that will connect the oil cooler to the oil pump.
Panel.
I also painted the corner and cross pieces. I did a second color coat to the panel.

F07 Panel.
I sprayed a self etching primer to the panel. After the primer dried I lightly sanded the panel. I sprayed a coat of color coat to the panel.

E01 Electrical and Avionics.
Panel Fuse Block.
I finished cutting out the slots. I drilled the holes for the bolts that will hold the fuse block to the panel. I need to install anchor nuts.

E01 Electrical and Avionics.
Panel.
I attached the angle for the throttle to the cross piece under the panel.
Panel Fuse Block.
I added a piece of channel to the back side of the fuse block holder that was previously made. Without the channel the holder would bend and flex. I did the layout for the slots in the panel for the fuses to go into the fuse block. I started cutting out the slots.

E01 Electrical and Avionics.
Panel.
I removed the panel from the fuselage. I used a sharpie to draw the location for all items on the panel. I drilled and cut the holes for the 2 EFIS, the Radio, the Switches and the circuit breakers. I put the switches, circuit breakers, EFIS and Radio in the panel. I need to order one more switch and the second EFIS. I put the panel back into the fuselage to make sure everything fit OK. It does.

E01 Electrical and Avionics.
Panel Fuse Block.
I used the brake to bend the piece that will hold and attach the two fuse blocks to the panel.
Panel EFIS and Radio holes.
I used some scrap to layout and practice make the holes in the panel for the Extreme EFISs and V6 Radio.

E01 Electrical and Avionics.
Panel.
Worked on layout for the panel.
Some Hangar Flying ;)

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Gascolator.
I got the stainless steel. I cut two 3.5" x 3.5" squares. I drilled the holes and used files to debur and match the holes. I put some RTV between the firewall and the squares. I bolted the gascolator and the squares to the firewall.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Gascolator.
I determined that the firewall adaptor would not work. The inside portion went too far into the area between the rudder pedals. I am concerned that a passenger might hit the fuel line with their foot. So I have decided to remove it. I am going to attach the gascolator directly to the firewall. With a 90 degree fitting the fuel line will be next to the firewall. Therefore the fuel line will be protected by the rudder pedals. I am going to place extra pieces of stainless steel on both sides of the firewall. Today I made a pattern out of aluminum. I installed it with the gascolator to be sure it will work. When I get the stainless steel I will make two of them. I will put one on each side of the firewall. This should strength and stiffen the firewall at the gascolator location.
Throttle Trim Attachment.
I drilled the holes in a 2 x 2 x 1/8th angle for the Throttle, Mixture and Trim Controls. The will be attached to the bottom of the panel in the middle. I bolted the Throttle and Trim to the angle.>/p>

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Finished installing the anchor nuts on the firewall. I put the RDAC and Oil Separator back on the firewall.

C01 Controls.
Rudder Return Springs. Spent the day adjusting the springs.

C01 Controls.
Rudder Cables and Adjusters.
I followed the plans order for installing and rigging the rudder cables and adjusters. I also installed the rudder return springs. The springs need to be shortened and adjusted.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Engine Mount Bolts.
I removed the temp castle nuts and replaced with the lock nuts.
Master Solenoid.
I located on the fire wall the position where I wanted to install the master solenoid. I drilled and deburred the holes. I installed bolts to attach it to the firewall.
Alternator Capacitor.
I am going to try installing B&C's Over Voltage and Filter Kit. I located and drilled a hole to mount the capacitor for that kit.
Firewall Hardware.
I am going to order and install anchor nuts for all items installed on the firewall.
Fuel Tank Straps.
I glued felt to the straps for the fuel tank.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Coils.
I drilled and deburred the holes for the bottom bolts for the coils. I then installed the bolts.
RDAC.
I located and drilled the holes for the RDAC. I used clecos to temporarily hold the RDAC to the firewall. Voltage Regulator. I located and drilled the holes for the regulator on the firewall. I deburred the holes and installed the bolts.
I will order anchor nuts for all the items on the firewall.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Air Cleaner.
I drilled and tapped a hole to attach the air cleaner assembly. I installed the air cleaner assembly.
Oil separator.
I drilled, up drilled and deburred the holes to attach the oil separator to the firewall. I need to get the bolts and anchor nuts to attach the oil separator. For now it is attached with clecos.
Coils for the Secondary Ignition.
I cut the stand offs. I drilled, up drilled and deburred the top holes to 1/4th size. I inserted temporary bolts in the top holes.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Gascolator.
I located and drilled the holes through the firewall for the gascolator firewall pass through adapter. I used files to make the main hole large enough for the adaptor. I bolted the adaptor to the fire wall. I attached the gascolator to the adaptor.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Oil Cooler.
I did a final trim and fit of the oil cooler. I installed the bolts and nuts to hold the cooler to the shroud / flange. I bolted the assembly to the engine.
Gascolator.
I installed the 45 degree elbow and the drain valve to the bottom of the gascolator. I also installed the plug to the top of the gascolator.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Oil Cooler.
I fitted the oil cooler to the mounting flange. I located it where it would not hit the exhaust manifolds. I had to notch the forward flange to match the hole for the oil drain / oil temp plug. I drilled the holes to attach the oil cooler. I cut out the area for the air to flow through the oil cooler. I only cut three sides of the opening so that I could bend the cut out piece to make the air deflector. I used a piece of cardboard to try to determine where I need to notch the air deflector. I bent, cut and filed to get the air deflector to fit.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Oil Cooler.
I bent the Oil Cooler mounting flange on the bending brake.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Intake Manifold.
I installed the intake manifold. I attached the hoses and clamps. I attached the metal tab to the engine block.
Electrical.
I started to figure out where I will put things on the firewall.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
Oil Temp Sender.
Decided that I will drill and tap the oil block off plate on the front of the engine for the oil temp sender.
Prop Hub Inserts.
I used a 5/16th bolt, washers and a 5/8th socket to be sure the inserts were properly and fully inserted.
Intake Manifold.
I used some alcohol and rags to clean out the inside of the intake manifold. I put the hoses on the intake elbows. I placed the intake manifold in place. I then determined where to drill a hole in the tab to attach it to the engine case bolt. I drilled the hole and put the manifold back to check it's placement. It looks like it will work ok.

P30 Aerovee Engine Installation.
I attached the engine to the engine mount. I inserted the bolts, rubber mounts, washers and nuts through the engine mount and engine.

P14 Battery Box.
I made the top attach hold down strap. I fitted and riveted it to the box and fuselage.

P14 Battery Box.
I finished making the battery box. I located the box on the firewall. I drilled, up drilled and riveted the battery box to the firewall.

Engine Mount.
I replaced the temp castle nut with the final locking nuts that attach the engine mount to the fuselage.

Landing gear and hydraulic brakes.
I finished installing the hydraulic brake assembly to the axles. I ended up using a shorter clevis pin. I also used a regular AN960-1216 washer to get the right spacing between the wheel and the bake body. I drilled the hole in the axle for the cotter pins. I also torqued the bolt / nut holding the axle to the gear leg and inserted the cotter pin. I removed the saw horses under the fuselage. The plane is now sitting on its gear.

P14 Battery Box.
I cut out the front and hinges. I drilled, up drilled and dimpled the front, sides and hinges. I riveted the hinges to the sides and bottom.
Engine Hoist Plates.
I cut a 6" piece of 3/16th x 3 in steel plate. I drilled 5/16th inch holes that will line up with the bolt holes where the exhaust connects to the engine heads. I also drilled a 5/16th hole where the chain will be attached. I checked this one to the engine and it will work. Tomorrow I will make three more.

P14 Battery Box.
I decided to make the battery box with a removable front panel. So I started cutting out the bottom and the sides. I also decided to use counter sunk rivets. I drilled, up drilled and dimpled the sides and bottom. I riveted them together.

C01 Controls.
C02-03L&R Rudder Cable Adjusters.
I fabricated these two parts from 1.5 inch wide bar stock. I used the band saw to cut to size. I used the drill press to drill the holes. I used files and the scotch brite wheel to finish the size and shape.
C01 Controls - Rudder.
I started following the plan general instructions for the rudder. I removed the retaining clips for the fairleads so I could thread the rudder cables from the front to the back of the fuselage. I reassembled the fairleads. I attached the aft cable ends to the rudder drive horn.

L07 Hydrualic Brakes and Wheels.
The pucks seemed to be keeping the inside bearing from fully seating. So I tried using a hardware store washer as a spacer but that left a large gap between the disk and the pucks. I removed the pucks and then the bearing fully seats. So I have ordered some AN960-1216 light washers. These washers have a thicknes of .032. I think that one or two of theses should space every thing a proper distance. We shall see.

L01 Landing Gear Installation.
L07 Optional Hydraulic Brakes.
Finished assembling the wheels and tires. Inflated the tires to 50 psi.
Installed the nut plates on the wheel pant mount plates. Threaded the 90 degree compression fitting and the bleed valves into the main brake body. I also inserted the pistons, o-rings and pucks into the main bodies. I put the wheel pant mount plates and brake main bodies on the axles. I packed the wheel bearing with grease. I assembled the wheels and bearings on the axles.

C08 and C09 Optional Center Controls.
I cut out the notch in the seat pan required for the center controls. I put the seat pan back into the fuselage and riveted the hinge halves to the spar tunnel.

L01 Main Landing Gear.
I placed the gear legs in the gear mounts in the fuselage. I installed the bolts, washers and nuts. I torqued the nuts and installed the cotter pins. I tapped the hole on the end of the axle with a #10-32 tap as called out in the plans. I also started the -09 wheel assemblies. I don't have any hex wrenches at the hangar so I'll will finish that tomorrow.

F01 Fuselage Complete.
Spar Tunnel.
I installed the 6 AN470AD4-5 Rivets. I used a hammer to buck the ends into the counter sunk inside portion of the spar tunnel. That completes the spar tunnel.

F01 Fuselage Complete.
Spar Tunnel.
Today I installed all rivets for the spar tunnel except for the 6 rivets that will be hard rivets needing to be bucked.
Landing Gear Bracket.
Today I placed the gear bracket into the fuselage. I installed all the rivets and bolts required per the plans.

F01 Fuselage Complete.
Spar Tunnel.
I drilled the holes and inserted grommets in the spar tunnel for the brake lines.
I also clecoed the aft spar tunnel and all the angles, gussets and brackets back into the fuselage. I did all the rivets in the fuselage side panels for these items.

C08 Center controls.
I located the positions for the support angles with the block attached to the flap drive tube. I drilled and up drilled all the holes for the support angles. I dimpled the three holes for the forward spar tunnel and support angle. I deburred all holes and installed the three ccc-42 rivets attaching the center support angle to the forward spar tunnel.
C09-17 Hinge halves.

C09 Center Controls Detail.
Attach Angle and Flap Support Angle.
Today I fabricated two parts that will be the center support for the flap drive tube. This is where the flap handle will attach to the drive tube. I also drilled the 1 inch hole through the phenolic block that will also support the drive tube.

Today was the first time since I moved to the hanger that I wasn't able to have the hanger door open all day.

T01 Tail Installation.
Fairings.
Today I finished fabricating and installing the tail fairings.
First Flight of a Onex.
Today I was able to witness the first flight of a Onex.

T01 Tail Installation.
Rudder.
I finished trimming the rudder stops. The rudder now travels 25 degrees in each direction. I made cardboard cut outs to measure the proper degrees from the left side of the vertical stabilizer.
Fairings.
I started the fairings. I cut out the rough shape.

T01 Tail Installation.
Elevator Control Rod.
Finished fitting the elevator control push rod and elevator drive horn.

Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder.
Attached the Rudder to the Vertical Stabilizer with the hinge pin to locate the placement of the hinge to the Fuselage. Drilled and up drilled the holes for the half hinge that attaches to the fuselage. Deburred and riveted the half hinge. Found that the left rudder stop plate was not thick enough. Drilled out the rivets. Made a shim out of .06 sheet stock. Match drilled the holes. Riveted the rudder stop back in its location with the shim. Used counter sunk rivets for the last two rivets. Filed and polished the left rudder horn to fit properly on the left rudder stop.

T01 Tail Installation.
Vertical Stabilizer.
I drilled the three holes for attaching the forward part of the vertical stabilizer. I removed the vertical stabilizer from the fuselage. I attached the three nut plates. I put the vertical stabilizer back in the fuselage. I installed all the bolts as called out in the plans including the three forward bolts. I put the elevator control rod in place to check for interference. I filed and polished two locations so that the elevator will achieve it full travel.

F02 Wing Rigging.
With the help of a friend I was able to redo the right hand hole for the main spar. First we mated the wings together out side of the fuselage. We left the left wing in the wing stand. We put the right wing in position on top of the left wing spar. I aligned the holes. I put the bolt in the left hole. I put the 1/4 inch pins in the three alignment holes. I put the 3/8 inch OD bushing in the right hole as far as the hole existed from the previous drilling. I clamped the spars together. On this step all that will be drilled is the new attach block. I drilled through the bushing with 1/4 inch drill approximately 1/2 inch into the new attach block. I took out the bushing. I then used the 3/8 inch drill bit that I had dulled all but about 3/4 inch at the tip. I drilled into the new attach block approximately 1/2 inch with the 3/8th drill bit. I then repeated the bushing and 1/4 inch bit for another 1/2 inch. Then the 3/8th for that 1/2 inch and then the rest of the way with the 3/8th inch bit. We the put the wings back in the fuselage. I used the three alignment pins to position the wings and spars. I clecoed the aft spar tunnel and aft vertical angles in place. I inserted the 3/8th inch bolt in the left hand hole. I used the bushing to be sure the right side was aligned. I then used the 3/8th inch bit to drill through the forward RH vertical attach angle. I drilled from the back to the front using the existing holes to guide the drill bit. The holes turned out great. I also noticed that the rivets by the hole in the front vertical would interfere with the nut for the bolt. So I drilled out those rivets and put them back in from the inside.

T01 Tail Installation.
Vertical Stabilizer.
I trimmed the elevator drive horn and vertical stabilizer skins to allow the elevator to move its full up travel. There was a gap between the elevator drive horn and the place for the elevator down stop. So I added a shim so that the drive horn would squarely stop for the elevator down travel. I put the bolts in the vertical stabilizer aft spar and fuselage.

F02 Wing Rigging.
I cut a 4 inch piece of steel bushing stock to be used to drill the pilot hole for the new attach block and attach angle. I put it in the drill press and filed and sanded the out side until it would fit into the 3/8th inch hole. I drilled the inside until a 1/4 inch drill bit will go through it.

F02 Wing Rigging.
I received from Sonex the replacement Right Hand Forward Wing Vertical Attach Angle. I match drilled holes in the attach angle using the existing holes in the fuselage assembly. I counter sunk the holes where it attaches to the spar tunnel. I deburred all the holes. I then installed the rivets called out in the plan.

T01 Tail Installation.
T01-04 Horizontal Stabilizer Installation.
I removed the horizontal stabilizer. I deburred the four bolt holes on both the fuselage and the stabilizer. I deburred all the skin edges. I put the horizontal stabilizer back on the fuselage. I installed and torqued the four bolts.
Vertical Stabilizer.
I trimmed the skins on the vertical stabilizer and fuselage to get a proper fit. I put the bolts in the rear vertical spar to test the fit. I also put the rudder on to check for alignment.

T01 Tail Installation.
T01-04 Horizontal Stabilizer Installation.
I filled the elevator horn stop to get the required 160 degree angle for the up travel. I clamped the horizontal Stabilizer to the fuselage location. I drilled the four 1/4 in holes. I had to notch out part of the top skin to get to the aft two holes.

T01 Tail Installation.
I first finished putting together with clecos the Van's Vents.
Horizontal Stabilizer.
I started the installation. I cut a piece of word to the 160 degree angle to check the up elevator travel. I worked at trimming the skin edges to obtain the proper fit and location.

F02 Wing Rigging.
In addition to replacing the RH Fwd Attach Angle I have decided to replace the Attach Block that is next to that angle. That is the Attach Block on the Left Wing Main Spar on the right hand side. Today I fabricated that attach block from 1" x 1 1/4" bar stock. I drilled the two 1/4" holes and installed it on the end of the Left Hand Wing Spar. I used a "D" drill bit to get tight fit holes. I will drill the 3/8" hole after I install the new RH Fwd Attach Angle.
Vents.
Today I also started assembling the side vents that I purchased from Van's Aircraft. These are the vents used on the RV-12 and back vents for the RV-10. I have seen a few others use these vents on their Sonex. So I have decided that I will give them a try.

F02 Wing Rigging.
Rear Spar Carry Through.
With the wings off I was able to install the remaining rivets for the side attach angles.
Drilling the Main Spar Attach Holes.
After close inspection of the holes today I determined that the hole through the right hand forward wing attach angle on the side of the fuselage was not good. The hole was not a close fit to the bolt. All other hole locations appear to be good. So I have decided to replace the RH Fwd attach angle. Today I carefully drilled out all of the rivets and removed the RH Fwd Attach angle. I ordered a replacement from Sonex. I will install it when it arrives.

F02 Wing Rigging.
Drilling the Main Spar Attach Holes.
I was so busy I did not take any pictures of this process. I will take a few after the fact pictures tomorrow.
I had help from a friend.
I followed the step by step instructions in the plans. I did not use the 3/8 in bit with the 1/4 in pilot. I up drilled from the back to the front in 32nd in increments from 1/4 to 3/8.

F02 Wing Rigging.
Rear Spar Carry Through.
I finished installing the Rear Spar Carry Through. I removed the rear spar carry through and angles from the fuselage. I attached the shear angle to the rear spar carry through with rivets. I put the assembly back into the fuselage with clecos. I installed all the rivets I could get to with the wings on. I could not do all the rivets for the side angles. I inserted the bolts to hold the rear spar in place.

F02 Wing Rigging.
Rear Spar Carry Through.
Clamped the shear angle in place. I used the "Tight Fit" drill attachment and a 90 degree attachment to drill the pilot holes.
I removed the rear spar carry through assembly.
I finished drilling the pilot holes for the side attach angle. I then up drilled those holes to the #30 size for the rivets.
I put the assembly back in the fuselage and up drilled the holes through the shear angle and the fuselage cross piece.
I again removed the assembly.
I the attached the shear angle to the spar carry through. I drilled and up drilled those holes to the final size of #30.
I clecoed the side attach angles to the rear spar carry through. I then up drilled the holes to the #30 size. I used the drill press to carefully back drill the 1/4 inch hole through the side attach angles.
I then clecoed the rear spar assembly and side attach angles back in the fuselage to check that the pins alignment. The pins alignment was good.

F02 Wing Rigging.
I continued with the wing rigging.
I verified that the wings were still level.
I set the wing incidence by placing a 2x4 and wood shims under the wings next to the fuselage. I measured to be sure that the distance from the bottom wing skin to the bottom of the fuselage skin was 3 5/32 inches. I clamped the wings in that position.
I checked to be sure that the wings were square by measuring from the tail to the out board corner of the top wing skin per the plans.
I started installing the rear spar carry through.
I drill some of the pilot holes from the side attach angles to the fuselage and the rear spar carry through.

F02 Wing Rigging.
More work on the wing rigging. <>br>I removed the leveling tubing.
With some help I pulled the right wing out of the fuselage. Also partially pulled the left wing out of the fuselage. I filled the top of the fuselage opening for the right wing spar. I also up drilled the 3/16th holes on the rear wing spars to 1/4 holes. This matches the holes on the rear spar carry through. Pushed the left wing and then the right wing back into the fuselage.
I then centered the wings in the fuselage.
I set up the wing leveling tubes. I inserted a shim between the lower longeron and right wing spar. This leveled the wings.
Using clecos I put the aft spar tunnel, aft side vertical wing attach angles and gussets back into their place in the fuselage.
I connected the wing rear spars to the rear spar carry through using pins.
That is it for today.

F02 Wing Rigging.
Continued work on the wing rigging.
First I worked on centering the wing in the fuselage. I measured from the attachment block holes to the side fuselage skins. I was able to get it to within 1/32nd difference. Next I setup the tubing with windsheild washer fluid to check for wing level. I also verified that the fuselage was still level. I tried to insert a shim under the spar to raise the right wing but there was not enough room. I will need to pull out the wing some so I can fill the top of the opening that the wing spars go into the fuselage. This should allow the spar to go up so I can insert a shim to level the wings. I also tried to set the incidence in hope that it might allow enough room above the spar. It did not allow enough room.

F02 Wing Rigging.
Today I started the wing rigging.
With the help of a good friend I inserted the wings into the fuselage. I had to file a little at the top of the fuselage opening on the left side. With a little raising and lowering of the wing tips I was able to insert the three 1/4" pins in the three alignment holes in the spars. The fuselage is level from side to side.

F02 Wing Rigging.
I started preparing for the putting the wings into the fuselage. I removed the gear legs and gear mounts. I removed the side gussets and vertical angles. I also removed the aft spar tunnel assembly. I then removed the lower skin of the aft fuselage.

L01 Gear Leg and L01-05 Axle.
Rework left gear leg holes.
Today I will re worked the hole on the axle end of the gear leg. I up drilled the hole for AN5 (5/16th) hardware.

L01 Gear Leg and L01-05 Axle.
Rework left gear leg holes.
After closer inspection I found that the holes drilled through the left gear leg, gear mount and axles were not as good as they should be. The problem was in the welded parts. I decided that I would up drill the holes to AN5 (5/16th) hardware. Today I up drilled the hole through the gear mount and gear leg. The new hole came out great. Tomorrow I will re work the hole on the axle end of the gear.

L01-05 Axles.
I removed the Left gear leg from the fuselage with the axle still held in place by the visegrip. I setup the drill press with the self centering jig and gear leg / axle. I then drilled a pilot hole through both the axle and the gear leg. I up drilled the hole to the final 1/4 in size. I put the AN4-17 bolt through the gear leg and axle. I bolted the gear leg back in the fuselage. I clamped the angles back to the axle. The position and measurements were still correct.

L01-05 Axles.
I used a 6ft piece of aluminum angle and 2 short scrap pieces of angle to position the axles on the gear legs. I put the toe in alignment tools on the axles. I clamped the short angles to the axles. I clamped the 6 ft angle to the 2 short scrap angles. There was a place on each on the axle welded part that interfered with the 6ft angle. So I filed away enough of the angle so that they did not touch. I used two large carpenter squares clamped to the 6ft angle to hold the axles the 14 3/8 inches from the bottom of the fuselage. I used visegrips to hold the axles to the gear legs. I then used the hand drill to drill a starting position through the pilot hole in the axle and onto the gear legs. I removed the right gear leg from the fuselage with the axle still held in place by the visegrip. I setup the drill press with the self centering jig and gear leg / axle. I then drilled a pilot hole through both the axle and the gear leg. I up drilled the hole to the final 1/4 in size. I put the AN4-17 bolt through the gear leg and axle. I bolted the gear leg back in the fuselage. I clamped the angles back to the axle. The position and measurements were still correct.

L01 Gear Mounts.
The kit supplied gear mounts did not have the pilot hole drilled. I used a bent coat hanger to locate the top and bottom of the doubler in the gear mount. I then measured the 1/2 inch location for the pilot hole per the plans. I drilled a 1/8th inch pilot hole and up drilled to the 1/4 inch. I inserted the gear legs. I used the hole in the gear leg to locate and drill the 1/4 inch hole on the other side of the gear mount. I put the gear mounts back in the fuselage using clecos to hold them in place. I then inserted the gear legs and installed the bolts holding them.

L01-05 Axles.
The kit supplied axles did not have the 3/16th pilot holes drilled. I located the position of the pilot holes. I used the drill press to drill the pilot holes on one side of the axles. I drilled the hole on the side that will be on the up side when placed on the gear legs.

L01-04 Main Gear Legs.
I continued drilling the upper holes in the gear legs. I finished up drilling the first one to the 1/4 size using a new Cobalt drill bit.
I then drilled the pilot hole and final 1/4 size in the other leg.

I also bolted the engine mount back in position.

L02 Push Rod Boot.
I turned the boot inside out and applied Red RTV to completely coat the inside surface.

L01 Main Gear Leg.
I used the drill press to drill one pilot hole in one of the gear legs. I did not have a Cobalt 1/4 drill bit so I tried a normal one. It started to smoke so I stopped. I went and bought a couple of 1/4 in Colbalt bits and another 1/8 in Colbalt bit.
I highly recommend watching the Sonex video on drilling the gear legs. I followed the video instructions for the pilot hole and it worked great.

L02 Push Rod Boot.
I cut down the Cessna 150 boot to the size of the firewall opening. I drilled the holes in the firewall for the rivets. I applied Red RTV to the mating surfaces. I then installed the rivets.

C02-04 Push Rod Assembly.
I used a propane torch and a wire brush to clean off the powder coating. I used the drill press and cordless drill to drill and up drill the bolt hole at the end of the push rod. I applied white Lithium grease to the push rod. I slide the springs and slider on the push rod. I installed the bolt through the end cap and push rod.

C02-04 Push Rod Assembly.
I started to work on the assembly. I removed the tape covering the threaded end of the push rod. I then realized that the control rod end bearings needed some work.
C01 detail K. I drilled the witness holes for the control rod end bearings. I also pressed the brass bushings that reduce the ID for the rod end bearings.

L02-01 Nose Landing Gear Assembly.
I shaped the travel stop plate to fit on the motor mount. I drilled a hole in the corner and then used the band saw to cut out the corner. I then used the scotch brite wheel to trim and shape the cut out to fit around the weld on the motor mount. I located and drilled the holes in the motor mount. I then installed the bolts to hold the travel stop plate.
I also attached the nut holding the 5/16th bolt through the steering cap and gear strut.
I also started looking at the boot for the control push rod for the steering. I decided I should prepare the steering push rod so I can be sure the boot will fit correctly.

L02-01 Nose Landing Gear Assembly.
I drilled and up drilled to 5/16th the hole through the steering cap and gear strut. I used the drill press and self centering jig to start the holes trough the gear strut. I then used the jig to hold the gear strut while I used the hand drill to up drill the hole to the final 5/16th.
I applied white lithium grease to the bushings, washers and gear strut. I then assembled the gear strut to the motor mount. I used a harbor freight ratchet strap to compress the spring enough to get the bolt through the holes of the steering cap and gear strut.

L02-01 Nose Landing Gear Assembly.
I decided to drill the holes that will hold the Nose wheel pants bracket to the Nose Gear Strut. The Nose Wheel Pant Brackets are provided with the kit as flat sheet parts that need to be bent. I bolted the flat brackets to the strut. I used the flat brackets to locate the holes for the AN3-5A bolts. I clamped every thing in place and drilled the 3/16th holes.
Since I had the bracket parts out I decided to go ahead and finish bending the brackets to their final shape.
Next I located and drilled the 1/8th In. pilot holes in the steering cap. I used the drill press to drill the pilot holes.

L02-01 Nose Landing Gear Assembly.
I assembled the nose gear wheel.
I coated the inside of the tire and the outside of the inner tube with baby powder. I inserted the inner tube in the tire and assembled the two halves of the wheel. I tightened the bolts for the wheel. I partially inflated the tire and deflated it a couple of times to be sure the inner tube would not be twisted or pinched. I then re inflated the tire.
The nose gear fork.
The fork came with only one of the holes drilled. I located the other holes and used the drill press to drill that hole.
I attached the wheel to the gear fork.

L02-01 Nose Landing Gear Assembly.
I decided to remove the tape and paper wrapping the main gear axles. I know it is not on this plan page but I decided take a quick look at them.
I then decided to use a file to make sure that there wasn't any flashing or rough spots on the nose wheel halves.
I also looked to see that I have the parts and hardware I will need.

Ron Smith, EAA Tech Cousoler did a visitation and looked at the fuselage. He said it looked good to this point.
Since I removed the seat pan so he could look at every thing I decided to lube the hinge pins with some candle wax.

Moved the fuselage to the hangar with help from two good friends.
It was almost to the day three years from when my kit was delivered.

Moved shop tables and power tools to the hangar

Nose Gear.
P32-01 Engine Mount. I removed the engine mount. I debured all the holes for the engine mount, shims and engine mount angles.
L02 SF 4048-20 bronze bearings. I filed and sanded the inside tube of the engine mount. I also sanded to out side of the bearings. I did this until I was able to insert the bearings into there location on the engine mount.
L02-02 Nose Gear Strut. I removed the powder coating where the strut will travel between the two bearings. I first used a propane torch and wire brush to remove the powder coating. I then used emery cloth to sand the strut smooth and remove any remaining powder coat.
L02-01 Nose Landing Gear Assembly. Trial Fit.
I placed the L02-13 Steel Washers and the L02-12 Spring on the Gear Strut. I then inserted the Gear strut into the bearings on the engine mount.

F03-01 Rear Spar Carry Through Assembly.
I first lined up the F03-03 Fitting with the F03-05 Angle Fitting using a AN4 bolt in the 1/4th inch holes. I clamped the two parts together. I used the drill press to drill three #30 holes in the angle fitting using the 1/8th holes in the fitting as a guide. I clecoed the holes as I went so I was able to remove the clamp to get the third hole.
Next I lined up the fitting and angle fitting with the F03-02 channel again using a AN4 bolt in the 1/4th inch hole. I made sure the bottom edges were parallel and clamped them in place. I then drilled the 1/8th and 3/32nd holes through the channel using the other parts as a guide.
Next I remove the angle fitting and aligned it with the F03-04 Spacer. I clamped it in place. I used the drill press to drill the 1/8th inch holes in the spacer using the holes in the angle fitting as guide. I clecoed as I went and removed the clamp to drill the final 3rd hole.
I clecoed the angle fitting and spacer back on the -02 assembly. Next I up drilled the 3/32nd holes to #30 size for future rivets. Then I up drilled the three 1/8th inch holes to 3/16ths for the AN3 bolts.
Next I took the assembly apart and deburred all the holes.
Then I assembled the assembly using clecos for the rivets and AN3-7A bolts in the three holes.
I then repeated the process for the other end of the assembly.

F03-08 Shear Angle.
Used files and scotch brite wheel to get to final shape and size. Drilled the #40 pilot holes per the plans.
F03-07 Spacers.
Used the scotch brite wheel to get to the final shape and size.
F03-04 Spacers.
Used files and the scotch brite wheel to get to the final shape and size.
F03-03 Fittings.
The kit provided the part cut to the proper shape and with pilot holes drilled. I up drilled the three 1/8th and one 1/4th inch holes. I used files and the hand scotch brite wheel to clean cut marks from all the edges.
F03-02 Channel.
I used the band saw to cut to proper length and finished to proper length with files and scotch brite wheel. I drilled and up drilled the two 1/4th inch holes. For the 1-3/4th inch hole I drilled using a step drill up to 7/8th inch hole. I then used the nibler to get close to the final size. I finished to the final size using files and the hand scotch brite wheel. For the notches at the lower corners I drilled the corners to get an approximate radius. I then used the band saw to cut the notches into the holes drilled in the corners. I finished to final shape and size using files and the scotch brite wheel.

F03-08 Shear Angle.
Used the hack saw to cut the Z02-03 Angle stock to the rough length. Used the band saw to cut the sides of the angle to the rough widths.
F03-07 Spacers.
Used the band saw to cut the .032 sheet to the rough size.
F03-04 Spacers.
Used the band saw to cut the 3/16th by 1.5 inch bar stock to the rough length.
F03-02 Channel.
Used the hack saw to cut the Z04-03 Channel Stock to the rough length.

P32-01 Engine Mount Installation.
I filled the lower portion of the mount and got it clamped in the proper location. I drilled, up drilled and counter sunk the holes for the MS24694-S100 bolts. I installed the bolts but I used AN310-4 Castle Nuts instead of the AN363-428 Stop Nuts. This is temporary. I want to be able to remove the engine mount if needed. When I am sure I will leave the engine mount on I will replace the nuts with the required AN363-428 Stop nuts.

P32-01 Engine Mount Installation.
I made some shims from the .063 sheet stock.
The rest of the day I worked on trying to get the mount in the correct location per the plans. I have been filing on the lower portion of the mount to try to get it a little closer to the fuselage. The ends are suppose to be out 22 13/16ths from the bottom front of the fuselage. At this point it appears to be about 22 15/16ths. It is interesting trying to measure to that point.

G01-07R & -07L Gascolator Mount Brackets.
I was going to start on the engine mount install. But the plans call for using .06 shims. So I looked in the materials list to see where the .063 sheet material was used. I found that the only thing left was the gascolator mount brackets. So I decided to make these brackets prior to making shims for the engine mount.

I used the band saw to cut the rough shape of the brackets. I then match drilled the 4 rivet pilot holes using the drill press. I clecoed the two parts together. I drilled the 9/16th holes using a step bit on the drill press. With the two parts still clecoed together I used the scotch brite wheel to make to two parts the same shape and polished the edges. I used the brake to bend the 90 degree angles.

I then got out the gascolator the I got from Wicks as part of the Fuselage Hardware Kit that I purchased when I bought my kit almost three years ago. I found that the gascolator is a Usher gascloator which is not what is detailed in the plans. The brackets will not work with the Usher gascolator. I looked at the hardware list from Sonex and it calls for the Usher gascolator. But the plans show a gascolator that looks like the Homebuilder Gascolator sold by Aircraft Spruce. Bummer! I need to check with Kerry to find out what is going on.

(10/31/2013 I got an email back from Kerry. There are pictures in the Aerovee manuel that show the Usher gascolator installed.)

I decided that it was time to finish some of the riveting.
F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I riveted the upper firewall F17-02 to the fuselage.
F06-01 Glare Shield Installation.
I riveted the glare shield to the longeron except where the panel cross tie is located. I will wait to rivet the panel and cross tie after the tank is installed and the panel layout is determined.
I also riveted the glare shield to upper firewall.
I also riveted the cross tie attach plates to the cross tie.

F06-02 Glar Shield Assembly.
I located F07-08 Fuel Tank Stops on the glar shield. I drilled the #40 pilot holes and up drilled to #30 size holes.
F06-01 Glar Shield Installation.
I installed the 6 AN525-10R12 bolts per the plans. I torqued the bolts to 25 in/lbs. Laurie was a big help holding the heads of the bolts while I climbed into the fuselage to tighten the nuts.

G01-02 Tank Installation.
Attached the G02-10 Gas Tank Straps to the longerons using the AN3-5A bolts called out in the plans. I torqued them to 25 in/lbs. I put the gas tank in the fuselage to check the fit of the tank straps. I will need to work with them to get them fastened.

C04-07 Flap Handle.
Cut the bar stock to length using a hack saw. Used the arbor press to make the 25 degree bend per the plans.

C04-05 Flap Handle Assembly.
Drilled the holes and installed the bolts to attach the Flap Handle to the Flap Drive Tube.

Firewall Cut Out.
I used the drill, nibbler and files to cut and shape the firewall cut out hole. This is where the rudder peddles will connect to the nose wheel for steering.

F08-11 Aft Flap Attach Angle.
Found that the pilot holes I drilled yesterday did not allow the angle to be the proper distance from the side panel. The plans had a 3/8th in measurement for the hole distance on the wing attach angle. The plans did not provide a measurement number for the distance on the flap attach angle. Yesterday I centered the holes on the aft attach angle. When I tried lining up the flap detent angle I found that the tip was not the required 37/64th from the side as called out in the plans. When the tip was at the 37/64th the detent angle had a 1/8th in gap from the aft attach angle. Further investigation and measurement of the plans showed that the holes on the aft attach angle should have been 3/8th in from the outside edge rather than the 1/2 in.

So I made a new F08-11 Aft Flap Attach Angle from 1" angle stock. I used the old angle as a pattern for the spacing of the pilot holes on the new aft attach angle.

F08-07 Flap Quadrant Installation.
I then clecoed all the parts in place and check for proper location. I drilled the 1/8th pilot holes in the attach angles using the 1/8th holes in the detent angle. I up drilled all the bolt holes a rivet holes to the final sizes. I deburred all the holes. I installed the rivets the hold the flap attach angles to the wing attach angles on the side panel. I installed the bolts holding the detent angle to the attach angles. These will need to be removed during the wing rigging.

F08-07 Flap And Trim Quadrant Installation.
I will be using the Aerovee Trim system so I am not installing the the trim lever. I am only installing the the flap portion. I am using the side flap position because I plan on changing to electric flaps at some time.
The F08-10 and -11 attach angles were supplied as kit parts.
The F08-08 Flap Detent Angle was also a kit supplied part.
I located the position of the attach angles on the wing attach angles on the side fuselage. I drill the required #40 pilot holes. The aft attach angle does not lay flat on the detent angle. I will need to adjust the angle of the aft attach angle.

Zack visits the shop

OK it is now too hot in the garage / workshop for me to work.
I am therefore suspending the project until some time in October when in cools down.
The temp in the garage has been starting out in the mid 80s and quickly goes into the 90s.
See you in Octorer

Placed the Fuel Tank in place.
Clecoed the panel in place,
Organized the shop for the summer.

F06-01 Glare Shield Installation.
I located, drilled pilot holes and clecoed the F07-07 Corner Plates to the Glare Shield Assembly and the Fuselage. I up drilled all the holes to their final size, #30 for rivet holes and 3/16th for bolt holes. I removed the panel and cross tie.
I inserted the fuel tank to check for fit. I also check the locations where the F07-08 Fuel Tank Stop Angles will be attached. It appears that all will be OK for the fuel tank fit. I removed the fuel tank and removed all the rest of the clecos. I deburred all the holes for the Gare Shiled and where it attach to the fuselage.

F06-02 Glare Shield Assembly.
I fit the location of the Cross Tie Plates and the Instrument Panel Cross Tie. I clamped the Cross Tie Plates in location. I drilled the pilot holes that attach to the Glare Shield. I clamped the Instrument Panel Cross Tie in its location. I drilled the pilot holes throught the Cross Tie Plates and Instrument Panel Cross Tie. I used a yard stick ruler to be sure the cross tie was straight across the assembly. I drilled the pilot holes through the panel and the cross tie.

F06-01 Glar Shild Install.
I removed all the clecos from the glar shield assembly and put it into the fuselage with clecos. I drilled the 4 holes on each side through the cross tie plates, longerons and glar shiled. I then drilled all the remaining pilot holes through the glare shield and longerons. I filr the firewall attach angles in their locations. I drilled a few pilot holes through the attach angles and glare shiled. I then removed the upper firewall to gain access to the remaining pilot holes for the glare shield. I drilled all the holes to #40 and then #30. I then deburred abd riveted the attach angles to the glare shield. I put the upper firewall back in place with clecos. I drilled all the #40 pilot holes through the attach angles and the upper firewall.

F07-01 Glare Shield.
I drilled the #40 pilot holes per the plans.

F06-02 Glare Shield Assembly.
I located the F07-03 Instrument Panel to the F07-01 Glare Shield. I clamped the glare shield to the table and the instrument panel to the glare shield. I drilled the #40 pilot holes. As i drilled I clecoed the panel to the glare shield.

F07-07L & -07R Left and Right Hand Corner Plates.
The part is provided as a kit part. However they needed to be bent 30 degrees. At first I thought I could do the bend with the arbor press. But that did not work because the one side is to short a distance from the bend, I ended up put them in the wood vise on the Harbor Freight work bench, I the used rubber/plastic hammer to make the bend.

F07-06 Cross Tie Attach Plates.
These also were provided as kit parts. I I needed to do to them was polish the edges and debur the holes.

F07-05 Instrument Panel Cross Tie.
Yesterday I had cut the channel stock to the correct length. Today I used the band saw to cut the one flange to the 1/4 in size. I also used the band saw to cut the angles on both ends. I used the small scotch brite wheel on the die grinder to polish all the cut edges. Next I used the table saw to cut a 2x4 with a 30 degree ange to use as a form. I clamped the part with the form to the work bench. I then used the rubber/plastic hammer to form the 30 degree flange bend.

F07-03 Instrument Panel.
The kit proved the part as a flat item with the pilot holes done. I used a combination of bending with the hammer and bending brake to make the required bends.

F07-01 Glare Shield.
The kit provided a preform part. The bends were already done. It needed to be trimmed to the correct size and shape. I used the snips and files to trim and shape the part. It still need the pilot holes drilled.

F07-08 Fuel Tank Stop Angles. F07-09 Center Firewall Attach Angle. F07-10 Side Firewall Attach Angles.
I cut the required lengths from Z02-03 Angle Stock.
I used the band saw to cut the sides to the required widths.
I used the scotch brite wheel the smooth the edges.
I used the drill press to drill the required #40 holes.
For the firewall attach angles I clamped the 90 degree stock to the bending brake. I then used the hand seamer to bend one side to open up the angle to 66 and 60 degrees per the plans.

F07-05 Instrument Panel Cross Tie.
I cut the required length from the Z03-02 Channel Stock.

C02-08 Rudder Pedal Pivot Block Assemblies.
I made the Rudder Pedal Pivot Blocks from phenolic.
I used the band saw to cut the blocks of phenolic to the proper size.
I used the drill press to drill one of the bolt holes through the blocks for each assembly.
I then placed each assembly under its attach angle. Using the actual attach ange as a template I the started the second hole for each assembly. I then finished drilling the second bolt hole using the drill press.
I bolted together each assembly and used the drill press to drill the 1in holes.
I used a half round file to file a chamfer the edge of the holes that are next to welds on the rudder pedals.

C01-01 Controls Installation.
I installed the C02-08 Pivot Blocks and the C02-09 Rudder Pedal Assemblies.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
I removed the machine screws from the Mounts and aft spar tunnel. I removed the clecos from the mount also. I then clecoed the aft spar tunnel into the fuselage. I also clecoed the main gear mounts to the fuselage and the aft spar tunnel.
I located and drilled the 1/4in hole through the lower fuselage for the aft arm of each gear mount. I inserted a AN4-16A bolt in each hole to hold it in place. I place a nut on each bolt and only tightened it only finger tight just to keep the bolt from falling out.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
Today I counter sunk and dimpled the aft spar tunnel where the gear mounts will be attached by machine screws.
I first practiced on some scrap material.
I used the micro stop to get the proper depth for the counter sink. I do not have a dimple die for the 3/16th size so I used the a smaller size to get the dimple started. I then used the machine screws torqued to 25 in/lbs to get the finished dimple. That worked very well.
Bob Meyers said in his web site that he went ahead and riveted together most of the aft spar tunnel at this time.
I checked and I will be able to get it in and out OK. So I went ahead and riveted the vertical angles and the support angle to the aft tunnel angle. I did not rivet the ends where the shear plates will be attached. I did this while the gear mount were still bolted to the assembly.
Tomorrow I will remove the gear mounts and cleco this assembly back in the fuselage.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
Right Hand Gear Mount. I up drilled all the holes to their final size. I removed the mount and side panel angle to up drill the holes in that location. Clecoed the gear mount back in location to be sure every thing fit. It did. I then removed both gear mounts and the angles and gussets from the side panels.
I then removed the aft spar tunnel as an assembly.
I also test fit the flap drive tube and assembly block. Before I start on the glare sheild and pannel I want to fit as much below them as possible.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
I removed the left mount and angle from the side panel. I updrilled the holes through the mount and side panel angle to #30 size. I deburred all the holes. I then clecoed the side angle back in place on the side panel. I also clecoed the left mount back in place.

I then started on the right hand mount.
I worked on getting it in the correct position. I enlarged the hole in the lower skin for the gear leg a little bit.
When I had the mount in the correct position I started drilling holes.
I first drilled the 3 holes that go through the lower skin and the longeron to the #40 size.
I then drilled the 8 holes that go through the lower skin and spar tunnel to the #40 size.
Then I drilled the holes that go into the aft side of the spar tunnel to the #30 size.
Next I used the 90 degree drill to drill all but one of the holes that go through the angle on the side panel to the size #40. The lowest hole I could not get the angle drill in position. I will remove the angle and the mount and drill this hole outside the fuselage. I will also updrill these holes to the #30 size outside the fuselage. Like I did for the left mount.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
Today I decided that I had the left mount in the proper position so I started drilling holes.
I first drilled the 3 holes that go through the lower skin and the longeron to the #40 size.
I then drilled the 8 holes that go through the lower skin and spar tunnel to the #40 size.
Next I used the 90 degree drill to drill all but one of the holes that go through the angle on the side panel to the size #40. The lowest hole I could get the angle drill in position. I will remove the angle and the mount and drill this hole outside the fuselage. I will also updrill these holes to the #30 size outside the fuselage.
Then I drilled the holes that go into the aft side of the spar tunnel.
I then went back and up drilled all the holes to their final sizes except for the side panel angle holes.
When I started up drilling the holes going into the spar tunnel the drill did not want to go through the steel mount. After trying a few different things I realized the speed of the air drill was probablly heating the steel so the drill bit would not cut. So I got out the cordless drill which goes a lot slower and it work just fine. Lesson learned fast is not always better.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
Kerry responded regarding the gear leg that did not seem to fit. He suggested sanding the gear leg and or the inside of the gear mount. So I wrapped some emery cloth around a dowel and removed the powder coating on the inside of the gear mount. Now the gear leg fits in the gear mount.

I also continued to try to find the correct location for the mounts. I want to be sure I get the correct location before I start drilling.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
Today I made the actual holes for the gear legs. I used the method I saw on Bob Meyer's website. I drilled holes arround the inside of the hole outline I marked yesterday. I then updrilled the holes untill the center could be removed. I used the half round file to smooth and enlarge the hole. I used the file until I could insert the leg through the hole and into the gear mount. I will make final adjustments to the hole when I actually install the gear legs.
During this process I found that one of the gear legs would not go into the upper part of either gear mount. The other gear leg will go into either mount. I sent Kerry an email. I will see what he says. I won't need it for a while.

L04-01 Tri-Gear Main Landing Gear Mount.
Today I worked on locating the holes for the main landing gear legs in the fuselage lower skin. I used tracing paper to copy the full size pattern in the plans. I then calculated reference lines for the inside of the fuselage. The reference line is 1 7/8" aft from the spar tunnel aft rivet line. The reference from the center line is 4 5/32" outboard from the 8th rivet hole in the spar tunnel aft rivet line. I marked the location of the holes. I placed the gear mounts in their locations to try to check the hole locations.

F08-02 Seat Assembly.
I located, pilot drilled, up drilled, deburred and riveted the F08-04 Seat hinges to the F08-03 (C05-04)Seat Sling to complete the F08-02 Seat Assembly. I did this with the F08-05 Structure Hinges attached to the Seat Hinges by the hinge pins. This helps keep the hinges straight.

F08-01 Seat Installation.
I placed the Seat Assembly in the fuselage with the Structure Hinges still attached. I inserted the hinge pins that attach the seat assembly to the hinge already installed in the fuselage. I then located, pilot drilled, up drilled, deburred and riveted the F08-05 structe hinges to the spare tunnel and cross tie box.

I was then able to sit in Favorite Lady for the first time.

F08-03 (C05-04) Seat Sling.
I have decided that for now I will not make the modifications for the Optional Dual Center Controls in C09. I am thinking that I will do electric flaps and the brakes either on the side or on the stick. I do not want the levers in the middle. I will decide later. I finished filing the cut outs to the final sizes. I used the small scotch brite wheel on the die grider to polish the edges.

F08-04 and -05 Hinges.
I cut them to length, drilled the #40 pilot holes, removed the required lugs and deburred the edges and holes.

F08-06 Hinge Pins.
I cut them to the proper length (including the bent length) using the cut off wheel. I used the bench grinder and scotch brite wheel to finish the ends. I then used vise grips to hold and bend the end per the plans.

F08-03 (C05-04) Seat Sling.
Since I am doing dual controls my Seat Sling is actually per the plans C05-04.
Also since I will be doing the Optional Dual Center Controls I need to further modify the Seat Sling per C09-07. This is for placement of the flap and brake levers in the middle.

I cut the .025 sheet to the size. I then marked the layout of the cut outs. I used the drill and jig saw to do the cut out for the control sticks and seat belts. I started using files to finish to the final size and shape.

F11-01 Fuselage Box.
Today I finished up a couple items left from plans page F11.
I clecoed the upper firewall to its location.
I replaced the temp bolts in the upper longerons / splice plates. I counter sunk the longerons and installed the correct screws/bolts as called out in the plans.
I also installed the tail skid and the bolt holding it in place.

F09-01 Aft Lower Cabin Detail Installation.
I finished deburring all the holes and parts. I clecoed all the part together out side of the fuselage. I then check to see if it went back in place and lined up with all the holes etc. It did. So then I installed all the rivets out side of the fuselage. It was a lot easier than it would have been with every thing back in place.
I clecoed the partial assembly back in place. I then riveted the lower skin to the assembly. I then riveted the places on the inside of the assembly.
My friend Robert came over and help Laurie and me turn the fuselage right side up.

F09-01 Aft Lower Cabin Detail Installation.
I finished up drilling all the holes to their proper size.
I also started deburring all the holes and parts.

F09-01 Aft Lower Cabin Detail Installation.
I up drilled the holes for the Idler Assembly. I deburred all the holes on the Idler Assembly and the F10-07 Brackets. I riveted the F10-07 Brackets to the Idler Assembly. To do the riveting I had to loosen the bolts and slide the two halves a part. I then had to file the tails on the rivets until the was clearence between the rivet tails. I then tightened the bolts and torqued them. I repositioned the assembly to be sure it would fit properly and it did.
Next I started up drilling the holes to the #30 size.

F09-01 Aft Lower Cabin Detail Installation.
I located, Pilot Drilled and Clecoed:
F10-12 Center Support Channel,
F10-13 R&L Seat Belt Attach Channels,
F10-14 and F10-15 Gussets, and
F10-16 Idler Assembly.

I also up drilled all the holes in the lower skin for this installation.

F09-01 Aft Lower Cabin Detail Installation.
I located, Pilot Drilled and Clecoed:
F09-02 Seat Bet Attach Assembly,
F10-24 Gusset Plate with F10-25 Gusset Spacer,
F10-02 Cap Assembly, and
F10-09 R&L Support Channels.

For F09-02 Seat Belt Attach Assembly and F10-09 Support Channels I used a line drawn on the flange to line up with the holes in the lower skin.

I also clamped the F10-02 Cap Assembly to the F09-02 Seat Belt Assembly to be sure that there was a constant height from the lower skin.

F09-02 Seat Belt Attach Assembly.
I located, pilot drilled, up drilled, deburred and riveted
F10-08 Clips,
F10-05 R&L Seat Belt Attach Brackets, and
F10-06 Hook Mount
to the F10-01 Angle.

I also located, pilot drilled, up drilled and deburred F10-07 R&L Idler Attach Brack to the F10-01 Angle. I did not rivet them at this time.

I also installed temp bolts to hold the upper longerons and splice plates until I flip the fuselage and install the MS24694-S54 Screws.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I installed the CCC-42 and CCC-44 rivets on the Forward Tunnel Zee.
I also clecoed the Aft Tunnel Assembly back in its location.
I also clecoed all the parts for the Side Panels.
Plans Page F11 is almost done.
The 3 remaining items that I will do later -
After I flip the fuselage I will install the MS24694-S54 Screws through the top longeron and splice plates,
Also after I flip the fuselage I will rivet the upper firewall in place, and
When I rivet the aft lower skin I will rivet the forward lower skin to the aft lower skin and the fuselage tail cone.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I continued reassembly with clecos.
I riveted the side panels to the aft fuselage.
I riveted the clips and gusset to the firewall and floor stiffeners.
I riveted the lower skin to the side panels, forward tunnel zee, floor stiffener and lower cross tie / firewall.
Next I riveted the rest of the lower firewall. I used the bent rivet mandrel tool to get in around the motor mount brackets.
I used CCP-46 rivetes to attach the upper clip to the upper cross tie. The plans call for CCP-44 but since I added the spacer I needed to use CCP-46.
I installed the 4 AN3-5A bolts that hold the upper cross tie. I torqued them to 25 in/lbs.
I revited the hinge halves to the firewall.
I installed all the remaining AN525-10R12 Bolts. Laurie helped by holding the heads while I did the nuts. I torqued them also to 25 in/lbs.
I riveted the 3 CCC-42 rivets from the tunnel zee to the aft clip.
After today I am at hour 1,299 on the project.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I finished counter sinks on the forward wing attach angles. I was able to use the micro stop on all but 3 holes on each side. I attached the counter sink cutter to the tight fit extension and was able to do those holes "free hand".
I then started the reassembly with clecos.

F10 Aft Lower Cabin Details.
F10-01 Angle.
I used files to make the radius in the corners of the notches. I located, drilled and deburred the pilot holes on the ends. I used step drills and files to make the cut out for the control rod path. I then used the hand seamer to make the 4 degree bends on each end.

F10 Aft Lower Cabin Details.
F10-07 R&L Idler Attach Brackets.
I used the band saw to cut these from some left over Z03-02 .032 Channel. I used the scotch brite wheel to clean the edges. I then drilled the required #40 pilot holes. I used the hack saw to cut to length. I measured and drilled the required #40 pilot holes. I also used the band saw to remove the two center lugs.
F10-02 Cap Assembly.
I clamped the Seat Attach Hinge and the F10-03 Angle to the table. I drilled and updrilled the holes to #30 for the rivets. I deburred all the holes. The plans call for CCP-42 rivets but that is based on the F10-03 angle being made from .032 angle. The F10-03 Angle is now provided in the kit as 1/8th angle. So I decided to up size the rivets to CCP-44. I then installed all the rivets holding the hinge to the angle using CCP-44 rivets.
F10-01 Angle.
I used a hack saw to cut Z04-03 Channel Stock to the required length. I then used the band saw to remove one of the flanges and cut the two corner notches.

F10 Aft Lower Cabin Details.
F10-13 R&L Seat Belt Attach Angles.
I located and drilled the pilot holes to #40 size.
F10-08 and F10-11 Clips.
I used some left over Z03-02 .032 Channel to make these clips. I used the band saw to cut the rough dimensions. I then used the scotch brite wheel to finish to the final sizes. I marked and drilled the required pilot holes to the #40 size.
F10-10 R&L Support Channels.
I used the hack saw to cut the rough length of the Z02-04 Channel Stock. I used the band saw and files to cut out the required notches. I used the scotch brite wheel to finish to final dimensions. I marked and drilled the pilot holes to #40 size.
F10-09 R&L Support Channel Assemblies.
I clamped the F10-11 Clips to the F10-10 Channels and drilled and up drilled the required holes. I deburred and cleaned the parts. Then I revited the clips to the channels to complete the assemblies.

F10 Aft Lower Cabin Details.
F10-16 Idler Assembly -
I used the arbor press to press the bushings into the F10-18 Pivot Angles. I put the assembly together without the Idler Plate. I line drilled a 5/16th reamer through the bushing. I put in the Idler Plate with the pivot bushings. It was too tight so I added some shims at the spacer to get a proper spacing and movement of the Idler.
F10-14 and F10-15 Gussets.
These are kit supplied parts. All Ineeded to do was clean the edges and debur the holes.
F10-13 R&L Seat Belt Attach Channel.
I used the band saw to cut the length corner notches and end flange. I used files and the scotch brite wheel to get the final size and shape. I used oak blocks and a clamp to bend the end flange to 90 degrees. I still need to layout and drill the pilot holes.
F10-12 Center Support Channel.
I used the band saw to cut to a rough length. I used the scotch brite wheel to trim to final length.

F10 Aft Lower Cabin Details.
I removed cut marks from the edges using files from the kit supplied parts:
F10-25 Gusset Spacers and
F10-24 Gussets.
For F10-22 Idler Plate I removed cut marks from the sides using files. I also up drilled the pilot holes to their final sizes of 1/4" and 3/16".
Using the band saw I cut F10-20 Spacer. I usde files to remove cut marks from the edges.
I then clamed F10-19 attach angle to the spacer and match drilled the holes to #13 using the holes in the angle for location.
F10-17 Idler Support Assembly.
I clamped F10-18R & L Pivot Angle together with the F10-20 Spacer and F10-19 Attach Angle in between. I used a drill bit to hel align the holes. I up drilled the holes untill I was able to insert the two AN3-7A bolts. I also had to round the one edges of the Right Hand Pivot Angle to allow it to rest in the radius of the Attach Angle.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I removed the Left Hand Side Panel and debured all the holes. I attached the side panels to the aft fuselage skins using clecos. I installed the side bolts through the side panel skins, longerons, aft fuselage skins and splice plates. I temporarily placed bolts through the top and bottom longerons and splice plates.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I removed, debured, and cleaned all the ink marks off:
F16-01 Lower Forward Skin,
F16-10 Lower Forward Cross Tie, and
F16-09 Upper Forward Cross Tie.

I also removed the Right Hand Side Panel to debur all the holes. I started to counter sink the Right Hand Wing Attach Angle. The tip of the counter sink cutter broke off so I had to stop. I ordered a new cutter and will finish when I receive it.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I finished up drilling the holes that will get rivets to #30 size.
I also up drilled the holes for the bolts to 3/16th".
I need to do the counter sinks and dimples.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I located, pilot drilled and clecoed the Upper Firewall Assembly. I had to do some trimming to get it to fit.
I made the P13-08 Hinge Half that go on the lower firewall. I located, pilot drilled and clecoed the hinge half to the firewall.

I up drilled to #30 the Firewall.

I also up drilled the lower skin those holes required to be #30. I marked with blue tape those side holes that do not get up drilled at this time.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I pilot drilled and clecoed the top where the Forward Tunnel Zee and the Aft Tunnel Web Assembly join.
I located, pilot drilled and clecoed:
F16-08 Side Clips,
F17-08 Firewall Stiffener,
F17-09 Floor Stiffener,
F17-11 Gusset,
F17-10 Upper Clip and
F17-12 Aft Clip.
For the Upper Clip I had to make a spacer to fit the radius of Upper Cross Tie. I also removed and reinstalled the firewall to gain better access for drilling the Upper Clip. Since I had access I went ahead and up drilled the upper clip and part of the gusset.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I finished locating, pilot drilling and clecoed the F16-02 Forward Tunnel Zee.
I located the F16-03 Aft Tunnel Web Assembly. I pilot drilled and clecoed the assembly to the lower skin. I also pilot drilled and clecoed the assembly at the Aft Wing Attach Angles.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I made a strap duplicator to locate 6 holes (3 ea side) where the lower skin and aft lower skin overlap. I drilled #40 holes and up drilled to #30. That completed the holes joining the lower skin and aft lower skin.

I drilled the pilot holes through the splice places and upper and lower longerons.

I started to locate, pilot drill and celco the F16-02 Forward Tunnel Zee.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
Located, Pilot drilled, and clecoed:
F16-10 Lower Forward Cross Tie, and
F16-09 Upper Forward Cross Tie.

F17-01 Lower Firewall. I used the hand seamer to make the two required bends.
I then located, pilot drilled and clecoed the lower firewall to the Fuselage Box Assembly.

I placed the motor mount in place just to see how it fit and looked. It appears to fit very well.

F11-01 Fuselage Box Assembly.
I clecoed the side panels to the Aft Fuselage Assembly using the pre drilled holes in both.
I made the 5 degree bend in the lower skin. I place the skin in location on the assembly. I clamped the upper and lower cross ties to help hold the box shape. I up drilled the holes in the lower skin where it attachs to the aft fuselage. I clecoed the skin in place as I drilled. I positioned the side panels so that the lower skin was properly located. I then drilled and celcoed the pilot holes that go through the lower skin and the logerons of the side panels. I used the pre drilled holes in the lower skin for locations.

F16-02 Forward Tunnel Zee.
I did some more filing to get the shape and size correct. I drilled the 70 #40 pilot holes. I also drilled to 3 3/8ths holes.

I also rearranged the shop / work area. I positioned the Aft Fuselage upside down supported by the three work tables. This is the position I will use to start attaching the forward sides.

F16-03 Aft Tunnel Web Assembly.
I finnished up drilling the holes to the #30 size. I deburred all the holes and edges. I counter sank some of the holes. I decided to get a new counter sink cutter before I do any more.
F16-02 Forward Tunnel Zee.
I cut the basic shape. I used files to get a more finnished size.

F16-03 Aft Tunnel Web Assembly.
I located, drilled and clecoed on the assembly:
F16-04 Support Angle,
F16-06 Vertical Angles, and
F16-07 Shear Plates.
I also up drilled most of the holes.
I practiced counter sinking and dimpling on some scap material.

F16-10 Lower Forward Cross Tie.
This is a kit supplied part. I cleaned and sanded this part.
F16-09 Upper Forward Cross Tie. This is a kit supllied part. The cut edges on this part required use of a file to remove cutting marks. I also cleaned and sanded this part.
F16-08 Side Clips. I used the band saw to cut these clips from Z01-03 Angle Stock. I used the drill press to drill the pilot holes. I deburred the edges and holes.
F16-07 Shear Plates. These are kit supplied parts. I removed the cut marks on the edges using the die grider with the small scotch brite wheel. I sanded and cleaned the parts.
F16-06 Right and Left Hand Vertical Angles. These are kit supplied parts. I cleaned and sanded these parts.
F16-05 Aft Tunnel Angle. I used the band saw to cut the Z05-02 Kit Stock to the proper length. I used a file to smooth and clean the cut edge. Next I cut the notches out of the lower corners. I used the drill to provide relief in the corners. I then used the hack saw to cut out the rough shape. I finished the notches using file to get the proper shape and size.
F16-04 Support Angle. This is a kit supllied part. The cut edges on this part required use of a file to remove cutting marks. I also cleaned and sanded this part.

F12-01L Left Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I finished installing the rest of the AN525-10R12 bolts. I torqued all the bolts to 25 in/lbs.
Both Forward Side Assemblies are now complete.

F12-01L Left Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I clecoed all the parts back in place on the assembly.

I also located, drilled, up drilled, deburred and clecoed:
F15-06 Doubler,
F14-05 Firewall Attach Angle and
F14-06 Firewall Attach Angle.

I marked all the holes that do not get rivets at this time with blue tape. I then installed all the rivets called out in the plan.

I also installed the AN525-10R12 bolts for the Rudder Pedal Mount Assembly.

I still need to install the rest of the AN525-10R12 bolts.

Today I reach 1200 hours into the project.

F12-01L Left Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I up drilled all the bolt holes to 3/16th except where the firewall attach angles will be attached.
I also removed the clecos and deburred all the holes.
I also cleaned off any ink markings.

F12-01L Left Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I located, pilot drilled and clecoed:
6 F14-10 Gussets,
F15-03L Rudder Pedal Mount Assembly,
F15-07L Flap Drive Mount along with F15-08 Spacer,
F15-09 Lower Gear Gusset Plate,
F15-10 Upper Gear Gusset Plate,
F15-11 Seat Belt Attach Gusset, and
F15-12 Angle Clip.

I also up drilled to size #30 all holes except for those where F15-06 Doubler will attach.

F12-01L Left Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I located, pilot drilled and clecoed:
F13-06L Lower Longeron,
F14-01L Forward Angle Assembly,
F14-07L Rudder Pedal Angle,
F14-08L Forward Wing Attach Angel,
F14-09L Aft Wing Attach Angle,
F14-13L Horizontal Angle,
F14-11L Gear Attach Angle,
F14-12L Seat Belt Attach Angle,
F15-01L Upper Motor Mount Angle,
F15-02L Lower Motor Mount Angle,
and F15-14 Doubler Support Plate.

F12-01R Right Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I removed the clecos and parts that had holes up drilled yesterday. I deburred the holes and used clecos to complete the assembly. I used blue painters tape to mark the clecos that do not get rivets at this time. I installed all the rivets called out in the plans. I installed all the AN525-10R12 bolts and torqued them to 25 in/lbs.
F12-01L Left Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I layed the skin flat on the work table. I clamped the F13-02L upper longeron in place (22") from the botton skin edge. I drilled the #40 pilot holes and clecoed the longeron in place.

F12-01R Right Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I first assembled the assembly with clecos. I then located, pilot drilled and clecoed F15-06 Doubler. I then up drilled those pilot holes to the #30 size.
Next I located, pilot drilled (#30 size) and clecoed F14-05 and -06 Firewall Attach Angles. I then up drilled those holes to 3/16th.
I also up drilled the hole through the Seat Belt Attach Gusset to the required 5/16th.
I clamped the clecoed assembly to the aft fuselage to see how it is going to look.

F12-01R Right Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I finished up drilling the holes to #30 size. I also up drilled the holes for some of the bolt holes to 3/16th. Per the assembly instructions I did not up drill the holes where the firewall flanges/ clips will go or the holes where the F15-06 Doubler will go.
I removed all the clecos and deburred the holes and edges. I also cleaned off all the ink markings.

F12-01R Right Hand Forward Side Assembly.
Located, Pilot Drilled and clecoed:
F15-03R Right Hand Rudder Pedal Mount,
F15-07R Right Hand Flap Drive Mount with F15-08 Spacer,
F15-09 Lower Gear Gusset Plate,
F15-10 Upper Gear Gusset Plate,
F15-11 Seat Belt Attach Gusset Plate,
and F15-12R Right Hand Angle Clip.

I also started to up drill the pilot holes to the #30 size.

F12-01R Right Hand Forward Side Assembly.
Located, Pilot Drilled and clecoed:
F15-01R Upper Motor Mount Angle,
F15-02R Lower Motor Mount Angle,
F15-14 Doubler Support Plate,
and the 6 F14-10 Gussets.

F12-01R Right Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I started adding more parts to the Side Skin by locating per the plans and drilling the pilot holes:
F13-03R Lower Longeron
F14-01R Forward Angle Assembly
F14-07R Rudder Pedal Assembly
F14-08R Forward Wing Attach Angle
F14-09R Aft Wing Attach Angle
F14-13R Horizontal Angle
F14-11R Gear Attach Angle
F14-12R Seat Belt Attach Angle.
I also clamped the F15-01R Upper Motor Mount Angle with .032 shims to the upper longeron.

F13-02L Left Hand Upper Longeron Assembly.
I made the counter sink for the bolts holding the Canopy Striker Plates. I sanded and deburred the longeron. I installed the bolts holding the canopy striker plates. I installed the rivets holding the loneron doubler.
F13-02R Right Hand Upper Longeron Assembly.
I sanded and deburred the longeron. I installed the rivets holding the longeron doubler.
F12-01R Right Hand Forward Side Assembly.
I cleaned off the manufactures ink markings on the F13-01 Forward Fuselage Side Skin. I laid the skin flat on the work table. I clamped the F13-02R Right Hand Upper Longeron to the table in position over the side skin. I then drilled #40 pilot holes using the holes in the longeron as a guide. I also made sure to maintain a distance of 22" from the bottom of the skin and the top of the longeron.

F14-01 Left and Right Hand Forward Angle Assemblies.
I clamped F14-04 Firewall Attach Ange, F14-03 Cowlling Attach Hinge and F14-02 Forward Angle together arrange per the plans instructions. I drilled and clecoed pilot holes at each end and in the middle. I then clecoed the assembly to the table and drilled the remaining pilot holes. I removed the assembly from the table and clecoed it together.
F14-10 Gussets.
I deburred the pilot holes and polished the edges to remove the cutting marks.
F13-04 Longeron doublers.
I polished the edges to remove the cutting marks.
F13-05 Canopy Latch Strike Plates.
I used the band saw to cut the phenolic to the size and shape per the plans. I used a router table to make the radius on the one edge. I used the drill press to drill the 1/8" pilot holes.
F13-02 Upper Forward Longeron
I then clamped the plates to the longeron lined up with the slots per the plans. I then used used a #30 drill to drill out as much of the corresponding phenolic that I could. I then used a hand copping saw to remove the material between the holes. I then used files to shape and smooth the phenolic to match the slots in the longeron. Next I drilled the 1/8" holes from the phenolic through the longeron. I up drilled these to the 3/16th for the bolts. I clamped the F13-04 doublers to their location per the plans. I drilled the pilot holes, #30 holes and counter sink for the requiered rivets.
Upper Firewall Filler Box. I received the last Southco receptacle. I riveted it in place.

F14-06 Left and Right Hand Lower Firewall Attach Angles.
I used the band saw to cut the Z02-03 Angle stock to the shape and size. I polished the edges with the scotch brite wheel. I used the hand seamer to open the angle to the required 94 degrees.
F14-05 Left and Right Hand Upper Firewall Attach Angles.
I used the band saw to cut the Z02-03 Angle stock to the shape and size. I polished the edges with the scotch brite wheel. I used the hand seamer to open the angle to the required 94 degrees.
F14-04 Left and Right Hand Firewall Attach Angles.
I used the band saw to cut the Z02-03 Angle stock to the shape and size. I polished the edges with the scotch brite wheel. I used the yard stick hinge template to drill the equally spaced 18 holes. I then located the two end holes and drilled them per the plans.
F14-03 Left and Right Hand Cowlling Attach Hinge.
I cut the hinge to the proper length. I used the band saw to cut the shape and to cut off the two lower lugs. I then used the scotch brite wheel to polish the edges.

F15-03 Left and Right Hand Rudder Pedal Mount Assemblies.
I countersank the #30 holes on the F15-04 mount angles per the plans. I dueburred all holes and edges. Cleaned off all ink marks. I then riveted the F15-05 angles and F15-04 mount angles together using the CCC-44 rivets called out in the plans.
Various Kit Supplied Parts.
F15-06, F15-09, F15-10, F15-11 and F15-14 were provided as part of the kit as cut to shape and with pilot holes drilled. However they needed to be deburred and cut marks on edges removed. I deburred all the holes and edges. I also polished all the edges to remove all the cut marks.

F15-05 Rudder Pedal Support Angle.
I cut the rough size from .063 sheet stock using the band saw. I then used the bending brake to bend the 90 degree. I used the band saw, scotch brite wheel and the belt sander to finish to proper size and shape. I then used the drill press to drill the #40 pilot holes.
F15-08 Spacer Plates.
I used the band saw to cut the 2" lengths of 1/2" x 1/8th" bar stock. I finished and smoothed the edges using the scotch brite wheel.
F15-15 Flap Drive Pivot Block Assembly.
I used the band saw to cut the phenolic blocks. Since I am going to install the flap handle in the middle (SNX-C08) I need one more set than this plan calls out. So I cut a total of six (3 pairs).
F15-03 Left and Right Hand Rudder Pedal Mount Assemblies.
I clamped F15-04 Left and Right Hand Rudder Pedal Mount Angles to the table with a 1/8th" spacer between it and the table. This put the side of the angles 3/8th" above the table. This is the proper distance that the F15-05 support angle needs to be offset. So that way I was able to place the support angle on the table and then clamp it to the mount angle in the proper position. I then drilled and up drilled the holes in the support ange using the mount agle as a guide.

F17-02 Upper Firewall Assembly.
I removed all the clecos from the assembly. I deburred all the holes. The 11/32" holes for the Southco Fasterners were rather rought so I used the rotoary tool to polish up all those holes. I dimpled all the holes that go through the windshield strap into the former and filler box. I also cleaned off all marks. I next reassembled the filler box to the former. I riveted the filler box to the former. all of these rivets have there heads inside the filler box. The 5 at the bottom of the filler box I was able to do with the rivet puller but the other 14 I had to do by hand. Then I reassembled the windshield strap and Southco receptacles. I riveted the strap and receptales into place.

F17-02 Upper Firewall Assembly.
I started off today by seeing that 5 of the rivets I did yesterday were put in with the heads on the wrong side of the assembly. I assume that that is for clearence for the filler neck of the gas tank. So I drilled them out and reinstalled them. No problem.
Next I worked on installing the F17-04 Windshield Strap on the assembly. That took almost all day. The plans call for the edge of the strap to be flat on the table with the web of the former to be up 3/4" on a spacer. So I placed some 3/4" mdf on the table to provide the required distance. The plans also call for the strap to be centered on the former. I tried to keep the former on the spacer and clamp the strap to the former. But it kept coming out with improper placement on the flange of the former. So I marked a blue line on the flange of the former and 3/4" marks on the strap. I then went back and forth between clamping the strap off the table and checking it on the table. I started in the center and worked my way out to the ends of the strap. Next I drilled the pilot holes using the strap pilot holes as a guide. Again I started in the middle and worked my way out to the ends. Next I drilled the holes for the Southco Fasterner Receptcales. I also flatened the fluting where the rivets and fasterners will go. I also up drilled the pilot holes to #32 since they will be dimpled.

F17-05 Filler Box Skin.
I drilled the 11/32nd hole and the 3/32nd hole on the filler box skin for the Southco fasterner receptcale. I also dimpled the skin for the CCS-32 rivets that will hold the receptcale in place.
F17-02 Upper Firewall Assembly.
I clamped the filler box parts to the upper firewall. I drilled, up drilled, deburred, and dimpled (where needed) the parts making up the filler box and where it attached to the upper firewall. I riveted all places on the filler box except where it attaches to the firewall.

F17 Fuselage Firewall and Misc Detail.
F17-12 Aft Clip.
I cut this from some Z04-03 Channel material. I used the band saw and scotch brite wheel to get the correct size and shape. I used the drill press to drill the pilot holes.
F17-11 Gusset.
Again I cut this from some Z04-03 Channel stock. I used some tracing paper to get a pattern. I then used the band saw and scotch brite wheel to get the correct size and shape. I drilled the pilot holes using the drill press.
F17-10 Upper Clip.
Again the Z04-03 Channel stock was the correct material to cut this part from. I used the band saw and scotch brite wheel to get the correct size and shape. I again used the drill press for the pilot holes.
F17-09 Floor Stiffiner.
I cut his to the proper length from .75" square stock using the hack saw. I cleaned up the ends using a file and the scotch brite wheel.
F17-08 Firewall Stiffiner.
Again I used the hack saw to cut the .75" square stock to the proper length.
F17-07 Doubler is a kit supplied part.
F17-06 Filler Box End.
The cut out shape is provided in the cut. However it is provided as a flat part without the required bends. I used the hand seamer to make the required bends.
F17-05 Filler Box Skin.
Again this part is provided as a flat cutout without the required bends. I clamped the part into the bending brake to hold it I then used a wood block and hammer to make the required bends. I still ned to up drill the hole for the Southco Fastner.

F19-01 Turtle Deck Installation.
In reviewing my work from yesterday I found a missing rivet on former #4 right hand side. It was where the former is riveted to the vertical channel. So this morning I removed the bottom skin and installed the missing rivet.

F19-01 Turtle Deck Installation.
Today I finished the Turtle Deck Installation. I first riveted the #1 Formers to the skin. Then I riveted the formers to the splice plate and forward clip. I also riveted the angle plates to the #1 formers. Then I riveted Formers #4, #3 and #2 in that order. Also on each I first riveted the skin to the formrs. Then I riveted the formers to the splice channel clips. Last I riveted for each former to the vertical and cross tie channels. This followed the order of assembly in the plans.
F18-01 Tail Cone Assembly.
I installed the four bolts AN525-10R12 called out in detail A. I torqued the bolts to 25 in/lbs. Next I riveted the bottom of Cross Tie #1 as shown in view DD. I clecoed the bottom skin to the assembly. I will leave it that way until the final assembly of the airframe.

F19-01 Turtle Deck Installation.
I finished disassembling the turtle deck. I deburred all the holes. I cleaned all ink marks off of the parts. I riveted the forward and aft to the splice channel. I reassembled the turtle deck using clecos. I riveted the turtle deck skins, side skins and longerons on bothe the left and right side. I did the left side first. I have decided to rivet every thing in the same order that the plans call for the installation. Next I riveted the turtle deck skin to the #5 former. Then I riveted the aft clip to the #5 former. I also riveted the inside bottom of former #5 to the aft shear web on the box.
Today was also an interesting day because I had some visitors. I always enjoy talking to people about my project and planes in general.

F19-01 Turtle Deck Installation.
I finished up drilling all the holes to #30. I then started disassembling the turtle deck. I also started deburring as I go.

F19-01 Turtle Deck Installation.
I located, drilled pilot holes and clecoed Formers #3 and #2 per the plans. I clamped the left and right formers to the clips at the top. I used some spacers I made to get the ends the proper distance from the center line at the top. I then drilled pilot holes into the formers from the pilot holes located in the skin. Then I drilled pilot holes in the clips at the top. Then I drilled the pilot holes at the bottom of the formers using the verticals pilot holes to locate. Since every thing was now located and pilot drilled per the plans I started up drilling to #30 size. There are a lot of holes. I will finish tomorrow.

F19-01 Turtle Deck Installation.
I finished locating Formers #1 by drilling pilot holes and clecoing along the front skin edge. I located, drilled pilot holes and clecoed the splice plate and front clip for Formers #1. I also did the same for the Attach Plates. Next I located, drilled pilot holes and clecoed Formers #4 per the plans.

F19-01 Turtle Deck Installation.
I drew a blue line 1" from the outer edge on F19-02 Skin Assembly.
1. Locate, Pilot Drill and Cleco Left Side Turtle Deck Skin
I removed the clecos along the longeron on the left side of the Aft Fuselage Box. I placed the Skin Assembly on top of the Box. I stood in side the box and raised the skin assembly to an angle that allowed me to slide the turtle deck skin in between the left side skin and longeron. I then proped the skin assembly up by wedging a length of angle between the splice channel and the right side longeron. I then positioned the turtle deck skin per the instructions in the plan. I next drilled pilot holes along the left side through the turtle deck skin. I clecoed the skin in place as I went along.
2. Locate, Pilot Drill and Cleco Right Side Turtle Deck Skin
I removed the clecos along the right side of the box. I slide the turtle deck skin in between the longeron and the right side skin. I made sure that the box was not twisted by checking level and plumb at bothe ends of the box. Next I drilled pilot holes and clecoed the right hand side of the turtle deck skin.
3. Locate, Pilot Drill and Cleco Former #5
F20-05 Former #5. Per the plans I next located Former #5 and pilot drilled holes. I clecoed it in place.
4. Locate, Pilot Drill and Cleco Aft Clip
Then I located, drilled pilot holes and clecoed F20-12 Aft Clip.
5. Locate, Pilot Drill and Cleco Formers #1
F20-01 Formers #1 I started to locate, pilot drill these formers to the turtle deck skin. I was able to get the left former clecoed to the turtle deck skin.

F19-03 Splice Assembly.
I measured and marked on F20-07 Skin Splice Channel the locations for the F20-10 Former clips. On one side of the splice channel I clamped the clips in location. I drilled #40 pilot holes through the splice channel using the clip for location. I then clecoed the clips on both sides to the channel. Next I up drilled to #30 all the holes for the clips through the channel. I removed the clecos and deburred all the holes. I clecoed the clips back in place and riveted them per the plans.
F19-02 Skin Assembly.
I clamped the splice channel to the edge of the table. I clamped the right hand skin to the channel. Next I drilled #40 pilot holes through the channel using the pilot holes in the skin for location. I then moved the splice channel to the middle of the work table. I clamped the end to the table edges. I also placed some block along the channel to help hold it up right. I clecoed both the left and right hand skins to the splice channel with the left skin on top. I then up drilled all the holes to #30 size. I removed all the clecos and deburred all the holes on both skins and the splice channel. I clecoed it all together with the left hand skin on top. I riveted all 77 holes. With 76 through the splice channel and 1 just through the two skins per the plans.

F20 Turtle Deck Details.
F20-12 Aft Clip. I cut this part from Z02-03 Angle stock using the band saw. I trimmed to final size and shape using the scotch brite wheel. I made a pattern of the holes using tracing paper. I transfered the hole locations to the part using the pattern. I used the drill press to drill the holes per the plans.
F20-11 Forward Clip. I cut this part from Z02-03 Angle stock using the band saw. I trimmed to final size and shape using the scotch brite wheel. I made a pattern of the holes using tracing paper. I transfered the hole locations to the part using the pattern. I used the drill press to drill the holes per the plans.
F20-10 Former Clips. I made 6 of these parts. I cut this part from Z02-03 Angle stock using the band saw. I trimmed to final size and shape using the scotch brite wheel. I measured and located the holes on the larger flange for all 6 parts. I measured and marked the holes on the smaller flange for only 3 of the parts. I used the drill press to drill only the holes I had marked. Since these parts are going to be 3 pairs on the skin splice channel I want the holes on the short side to be match drilled. Next I clamped the short sides together using one already drilled and one not yet drilled. I then match drilled the holes and clecoed them together. I also number the matched pairs so that they won't get seperated.
F20-09 Left and Right Hand Attach Plates. The these kit supplied parts however they needed to be bent 30 degrees. I used the arbor press to bend them to the correct angle. I also cleaned and deburred the part.
F20-08 Splice Plate. This is also a kit supplied part. All that was required was to clean and debur the part.
F20-07 Skin Splice Channel. This part was cut from Z02-04 Channel Stock. It was cut to length using a hack saw. The angles at each end were cut with a hack saw and snips. The end were cleaned and debured with a file.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
F23-09 Forward Push Rod Support.
I installed the support by placing it per the plans. I drilled, up drilled and debured the holes. I did not rivet it in place. The Plans call waiting to rivet until after the push rod is installed.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I turned the Box over so the bottom was up. I removed the clecos and skin from the bottom. I installed the tail skid mount. I put the mount in position and places the 3/16th spacer between the mount and the aft end of the box. I clecoed that location. I installed 4 AN3-5A Bolts at the bulkhead location. I torqued the bolts to 25 in/lbs. I turned the assembly box on its side. I moved one of the tables out of the way and set up three saw horses to hold the box assembly. I turned the box so that the top was up. I moved the box on to the saw horses. I leveled the forward end of the box. I then used a camera tripod to level the aft end. I placed some foam between the aft end and the saw horse as a precaution in case the tripod does not hold. I used a level to check that the sides, top and bottom were all level and plumb. I am very pleased all locations were correct.
F23-11 Aft Push Rod Support. I installed the support by placing it per the plans. I drilled and up drilled the holes. I deburred and riveted the support as per the plans.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I riveted the clips to the back of the Cross Tie Box. F23-05 Left and Right Hand Mounts. I clamped the assemblies in place and drilled #40 pilot holes and up drilled to #30 all the holes. I deburred the Left and Right Hand Mounts. I also deburred Upper Cross Ties #2 thru #4. I clecoed the Cross Ties inplace. I riveted the 5 holes on each corner that get get riveted now. There are seven holes on each corner that do not get up drilled and riveted until the turtle deck formers are installed. I riveted the Left and Right Hand Mounts in place. I also riveted the tops of Cross Ties #2 thru #4 through the Longerons.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I removed the F24-01 Cross Tie Box and deburred all holes. I clecoed the Cross Tie Box back in place. I riveted the front to the Vertical Zees. Next I installed the AN3-7A bolts and washers at the top of the Cross Tie Box. I torqued the bolts to 25 in/lbs. I then riveted the the locations for the top of the Cross Tie Box.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
Sherar Web / Bulkhead. I test fit putting the Shear Web / Bulkhead in place as an assembly. It worked just fine. So next I riveted the Shear Web Bulkhead together out side of the box. I did not rivet F22-06 Forward Angle to the assembly. Instead I riveted it to the vertical channels in the box bt it's self. I used the holes I had already drilled when the Shear Web was in the box. Next I clecoed the Shear Web / Bulkhead back in position.
Aft Area. I then up drilled to #30 all the rest of the holes in the Aft area that will be riveted now. Next I took every thing a part and deburred all the holes that were up drilled. Then I reassembled every thing with clecos. I riveted every place in the aft area that the plans required.
F24-01 Cross Tie Box Assembly. I trimmed and fit the ends to go around the splice plate. I drilled all the #40 pilot holes. First I did the front of tne box, then the top and last the F23-12 clips on the back. I then up drilled all the holes to #30. I also up drilled to 3/16th the 4 holes on top the will get the AN3-7A bolts. I test fit the bolts.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I turned the Box over so the top was up. On Upper Cross Ties #2 thru #4 I drilled the #40 pilot holes I was not able to get to when the top was next to the table. I also drilled the #40 pilot holes through the longerons and the top of Upper Cross Ties #2 thru #4. Next I up Drilled to #30 the holes through the longerons and the tops of Upper Cross Ties #2 thru #4. Also on Upper Cross Ties #2 thru #4 I up Drilled to #30 the 5 holes in each corner (total 30) that will be riveted. There are seven holes in each corner that are left at #40 for now. That is where the turtle deck formers will be attached later.
Where the Shear Web assembly attaches to the longerons I up drilled to #30 the holes. I also up drilled to #30 where the bulkhead gets riveted to the side skins. Next I removed the sher web / bulkhead assembly to see if I can put it back in as a completed assembly. It came out OK. Tomorrow I will try putting it back prior to actually riveting it together.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I positioned the Aft Shear Web Assembly and drilled #40 Pilot holes through the longerons. I also drilled a few of the #40 pilot holes through the aft angle using the bulkhead for reference. Next I clamped the forward Angle F22-06 to the channels with it tight against the shear web and the channels. I drilled the holes into the channels using a long 12" 1/8th bit. I used the tight fit long extension to drill down through the angle and shear web. I clecoed it all in place.
Next I debured, Cleaned and riveted lower cross ties #5 to #1 one at a time.
Next I put the Lower Skin back on the box with clecos. I then up drilled all the holes to #30 size. I also up drilled to 3/16th the 2 holes that will get bolts for Forward Lower Mount Angle.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I up drilled to 3/16th the 6 holes that go through the Tail Skid, Vertical Stabilizer Assembly and the Aft Lower Mount Angle. I then made the F21-02 Spacer. I used the Tail Skid Mount as a pattern for the holes. I then removed the Lower Vertical Post Assembly items from the Vertical Stabilizer Assembly. I then clecoed all the parts back on the Tail Cone Box. Next I drilled #40 Pilot holes through the tail skid mount bracket at the Forward Lower Mount Angle. I up drilled to #40 the 6 holes that only go through the Bulkhead and Forward Lower Mount Angle. Next I up drilled to 3/16th the 4 holes that also go through the Tail Skid Mount.
I positioned Upper Cross Ties #2, #3 and #4. I made sure the box was level and the sides were square. I then drilled #40 pilot holes I was able to access. On each corner there are three holes that are to close to the table top for me to drill. I will drill pilot holes when I turn the box over.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I used my tight fit right angle drill attachment to drill four #40 pilot holes from the T12-05 Angle through the upper longerons. The box is up side down at this point so the holes went into the table top. I clecoed the four holes to the table top. I then drilled the #40 pilot holes through the side skins and the vertical fin channel. I removed the fin channel. I then had intended to use the tight fit right angle with an extension. However the tight fit right angle quit working. So I used my right angle drill with the extention to drill the remaining pilot holes for the T12-05 angle.
I then remove the lower skin. This allows access to drill pilot holes to attach the Forward and Aft Lower Mount angles to the longerons. Next I drilled the pilot hole through F23-03 Forward Lower Mount Angle where it will attach to the longerons. I used the pilot holes in the longerons from the lower skin. Then I drilled the pilot holes through F23-04 Aft Lower Mount Angle. Again I used the pilot holes in the longerons as guides. Next I drilled 1/8th inch holes in the Aft Lower Mount Angle to match the existing holes in the vertical fin channel.
I attached the vertical channel and T12-05 angle to vertical stabilizer assembly. I then located the position of the tail skid mount on the assembly and clamped it in place. Next I drilled 6 1/8th in holes through the tail skid mount using the vertical stabilizer as a guide. I clecoed the F23-04 Aft Lower Mount Angle and the Tail Skid Mount to the Vertical Stabilizer Assembly to start updrilling the bolt holes.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I drew blue lines on the flanges of the lower cross ties to aid in the proper placement of the lower aft fuselage skin. I placed the lower aft fuselage skin on the assembly and aligned the pilot holes with the blue lines. I drilled the #40 pilot holes into the lower cross ties and logerons using the lower aft fuselage skin pilot holes. I removed the #1 lower cross tie, the Zee channel and slpice plate to gain access to drill the holes at the lower splice plate locations. I first drill the skin holes at the logeron location using the pilot hole in the longeron as a guide. I then attached the Zee Channel and the #1 lower cross tie. I temporarily clecoed the splice place to the top of the skin at the longeron locations. I then used the splice plate as a guide to drill the #40 pilot holes through the skin and #1 lower cross tie. I then clamped the spacer to the splice plate to use it as a guide. I drilled #40 pilot holes in the spacer. I then clecoed the splice plate and space back into the proper location. I up drilled the two holes for the AN525-10R bolts to 3/16th. I up drilled the other three holes on the splice plate to #30. I also up drilled all the holes on the #1 lower cross tie to #30.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I spent some time studying the plans to determine how to prep the vertical fin post assembly, How the tail skid mount and spacer should be drilled. I also looked at how the vertical post assembly will be installed in the Tail Cone Box. How the lower mount angle will be drilled and attached. I also up drilled all the lower cross ties to #30 holes.

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I located and drilled #40 pilot holes for lower cross ties #2 thru #5. I used two squares clamped together to make sure the sides were square at each location. I also test fit the lower skin several times as I went along. I also located the aft bulkhead (F23-02) and Forward Lower Mount Angle (F23-03). I drew a blue line on the flanges of the bulkhead to locate the holes in the side skins. I clamped them in place and drilled #40 pilot holes. I did not drill the holes for the bolts that will attach the Mount Angle to the Longerons and lower skin. I will wait to do that when I drill the holes for the lower skin,

F21-01 Fuselage Tail Cone Box.
I started putting together the parts that will make the Fuselage Tail Cone Box. On the tables up side down I clamped together the F25-01 side panels with the F24-05 Lower Cross Tie #1 and Lower Vertical Fin Post. I squared the side panels and lower cross tie #1. I made sure that the outside distance at the bend line of the side panels was exactly 40 inches apart. I the drilled the #40 pilot holes for the lower cross tie #1 using the pilot holes of the vertical zees as a guide. I placed the lower skin in place to check for fit. I also started to locate lower cross tie #2. I am taking my time to be sure that every thing is square and straight.

F23-02 Bulkhead.
I used the band saw and drill to cut the rough size and shape of corner cut outs. I then used files and the scotch brite wheel to finish to the final size and shape. I deburred all holes and edges.

F23-05L and F23-05R Right and Left Hand Mount Assemblies.
I deburred all holes and edges. I then riveted the assemblies per the plan.

F23-01 Tail Skid Mount Assembly.
I used the drill press to drill the required 1/4 in hole.
The F23 Plan Page is now complete.

F22-04 Angle.
I used the band saw to cut to the rough size. I then used the scotch brite wheel to finish to the final size.

F22-02 Aft Shear Web Assembly.
I clamped the -04 angle to the -03 web. I drilled the #40 pilot holes using the web pilot holes as a guide. I clamped -05 Aft Angle to -03 Web. I lined up the center pilot hole with the center of the web and the edge of the angle lined up with the aft endge of the web. I then drilled the #40 pilot holes. I up drilled to #30 the holes that were to be rivited. I riveted the -04 angle to the web using CCP42 rivets. I riveted the aft angle to the web using CCP44 rivets. All other parts on F22 are kit provided.
The F22 Plan Page is now Complete.

F23-08 Fitting.
I used the arbor press to bend this kit part to the required 10 degrees.

F23-07 Angles.
I rounded the inside corner using a round file. I also debured all the edges.

F23-05L and F23-05R Left and Right Mount Assemblies.
I aligned the -07 angles to the -06 webs and clamped them to the tables. I drilled the #40 pilot holes using the web as a guide. I then clecoed the web, angle and fitting together for the assemblies. I up drilled to #30 the holes that will get riveted at this stage.

F23-02 Bulkhead.
I cut the kit provided channel stock to the proper length using the band saw. I layed out the two large holes and the 14 pilot holes. I used the drill press to drill the 14 #40 pilot holes. I also used the drill press with a step drill to drill the larger holes to as close a size as I could. I then used a cut off wheel to cut the straight part of the large oval cut out. I then used files to get the 15/16th hole to its final size. I also used files to get the oval cut out to its final size and shape.

F23-10 and F23-13 Forward and Aft Support Channels.
I drilled the 1 18th inch holes. I also drilled the #40 pilot holes per the plans. I deburred all edges and holes.

F23-09 and F23-11 Forward And Aft Push Rod Support Assemblies.
I inserted the plastic snap bushings to complete the assemblies per the plans.

F23-07R and F23-07L Angles.
I cut the shape and lengths from Z02-03 Angle using the band saw and hack saw.

F24-01 Cross Tie Box Assembly.
I up drilled all holes to #30 size. I deburred all holes and edges. I used the table top and jig to hold the assembly while I riveted the upper web to the forward and aft channels. I removed the assembly from the jig and clecoed the lower web to the assembly. The assembly is complete to the plans. This plans page is now complete.

F23-12 Support Angle.
There are 2 of these parts. I cut the rough size and shape from Z02-03 angle stock using the band saw. I finished the final size using the scotch brite wheel and belt sander. I then used the drill press to drill the #40 pilot holes per the plans. I then bent the one side to 10 degrees as called out in the plans.

F23-10 and F23-13 Forward and Aft Support Channel.
I cut the rough length from Z02-04 Channel Stock using the hack saw and band saw. I finished to the final length using the scotch brit wheel and belt sander. I located the position of the 1 1/8th in holes and started drilling pilot holes.

F24-01 Cross Tie Box Assembly.
I finnished drilling all the #40 pilot holes on the upper web side of the assembly. I then removed the assembly from the jig, I used the forward channel and upper web to locate and drill holes in the table top portion of the jig, I clecoed the channels and upper web together into the table top and secured the ends of the channels to the jig. This way the assembly is up side down in the jig. I then located and clamped the lower web to the channels. I then drilled all the #40 pilot holes for the lower side of the assembly.

F24-05 Lower Cross Tie #1.
I cut the Z04-03 channel stock to a rough length using the band saw. I finished it to the final length using the belt sander and scotch brite wheel. I bent the one flange to the 5 degrees per the plans. I cut the cut out notches to a rough size using the drill and band saw. I finished to the final size using the die grinder, files and the scotch brite wheel.

F24-10 and F24-11 the forward and aft channels.
I cut the Zo4-03 channel stock to rought lengths using a hack saw. I finished to the final size and shape using files, the belt sander and the scotch brite wheel.

F24-01 Cross Tie Box Assembley.
I built a jig using some scrap angle. I got this idea from Bob Meyers web site. The jig holds the forward and aft channels at the required 3 inches and squaire to each other. I then used squares and levels to be sure there was not any twist. I started drilling the #40 pilot holes.

F24-06 thru -09 Lower Cross Ties.
I used the band saw to trim the longer flange to the 3/4 in required per the plans. I layed out the notches / cut outs per the plans, I drilled holes in the corners and then used the band saw to do rough cuts. I used files and the scotch brite wheel to get the finished size, shape and radius. I trimmed the angle on the flanges required in the plans.
F24-09 Lower Cross Tie #5. I layed out and drilled the #40 pilot holes per the plans.

F24-02 thru -04 Upper Cross Ties.
I trimmed the angles on the flanges as required per the plans.

F25-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel.
I installed the cover plate. This assembly is now complete per the plans. Plans Page F25 is now completed.

F24-02 thru F24-09 Upper and Lower Cross Ties.
I cut all the cross ties to rough lengths using a hack saw. I then squared one end using the scotch brite wheel and belt sander. I cut the final length using the band saw. I finished up the final length using the scotch brite wheel and belt sander. I made sure that the corresponding upper and lower cross ties were the same proper length called for in the plans. I still need to cut -09 to the final length.

F25-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel.
I removed all the clecos. I deburred all the parts. I used clecos to reassemble the skin, longerons, rudder stop plate and the vertical channels. I installed the two AN525-10R12 bolts holding the lower vertical splice plate to the assembly. I torqued the nuts to 25 in/lbs. I also clecoed the lower horizontal, upper vertical and horizontal splice place to the assembly. I used clecoes to attach the vertical zee to the assembly. I riveted the locations called out in the plans. I need to install the cover plate to complete this assembly.

F25-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel.
I up drilled to #30 those holes that will be riveted on this assembly. There are 4 holes that were up drilled that will not be riveted at this time. I placed some blue tape on those clecos to remind me not to rivet those holes.
I located and drilled pilot (#40) holes for the upper and lower splice plate. I used a piece of scrap angle to create an extension of the side panel on which the required measurements could be made per the plans. I started with the vertical splice plates. They were clamped in place and then pilot holes drilled using the existing holes in the splice plates as guides. Then the horizontal splice plates where clamped in place and pilot holes drilled. The two bolt holes in the lower vertical splice plate were step up drilled to 3/16th (#30, #21 and 3/16th).
I located the vertical Zee #1 using the blue bend line on the aft side skin, The Zee was also located down 1 and 1/8th inch from the top of the upper longeron. I then drilled the #40 pilot holes in the Zee using the pilot holes in the aft side skin as a guide for location.

F25-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel.
I drilled the #40 pilot holes for F26-08 Rudder Stop Plate. I used the side skin pilot holes to locate the holes. I marked blue lines on the flanges for the vertical channels #2 thru #5. I then located the vertical channels #2 thru #5 using the blue lines on the flanges lined up with the pilot holes in the aft side skin, The channels were also located down 1/4th inch from the top of the upper longeron. I then drilled the #40 pilot holes in the channels using the pilot holes in the aft side skin as a guide for location.

F25-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel.
Today I drilled #40 pilot holes in F26-03L Left Hand Lower Longeron using the pilot holes in F26-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel Skin to locate the holes. I clecoed the skin to the longeron as I drilled the holes. I used a piece of scrap .025 to measure the skin over hang. The over hang is so that the bottom skin will be flush with the bottom of the side skin.
I also drilled #40 pilot holes in F26-02L Left Hand Upper Longeron using the pilot holes in F26-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel Skin to locate the holes. I clecoed the skin to the longeron as I drilled the holes.

F26-01L Left Hand Aft Side Panel Skin.
I marked on the skin the location and shape of two holes. These are the access 4" hole and the rudder cable hole/slot. These are not done as part of the kit. I used a drill to create starter holes. For the rudder cable hole I used the cut off wheel to cut the rough length shape. I then used files to finish the hole/slot. For the access hole I first used the cut off wheel to create a large access area, Then I used the nibbler to get the rough shape. I then used a file to finish the shape. I also used the small scotch brite wheel to smooth out and finish the hole. I used the Harbor Freight bending brake to bend the 14 degree bend at the forward end of the skin.

F26-02L Left Hand Upper Longeron.
I used the hack saw to cut the forward end to the one angled cut per the plans. Using the hack saw I cut the other end to the total length per the plans. I used files and the small scotch brite wheel on the die grinder to smooth and debur the cut ends.

F26-03L Left Hand Lower Longeron.
I used the hack saw to cut the forward end to the two angled cuts per the plans. Using the hack saw I cut the other end to the total length per the plans. I used files and the small scotch brite wheel on the die grinder to smooth and debur the cut ends.

F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
I installed the two AN525-10R12 bolts holding the lower vertical splice plate to the assembly. I torqued the nuts to 25 in/lbs. I also clecoed the lower horizontal, upper vertical and horizontal splice place to the assembly. I used clecoes to attach the vertical zee to the assembly. I also attached the cover plate using screws. This assembly is now complete per the F25 plans page.

F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
I deburred all the parts. I used clecos to reassemble the skin, longerons, rudder stop plate and the vertical channels. I riveted the locations called out in the plans.

F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
I located and drilled pilot (#40) holes for the upper and lower splice plate. I used a piece of scrap angle to create an extension of the side panel on which the required measurements could be made per the plans. I started with the vertical splice plates. They were clamped in place and then pilot holes drilled using the existing holes in the splice plates as guides. Then the horizontal splice plates where clamped in place and pilot holes drilled. The two bolt holes in the lower vertical splice plate were step up drilled to 3/16th (#30, #21 and 3/16th).
The 5 inch cover plate (W18-02) was installed over the 4 Inch access hole per the plans.
All the clecos were removed so all the parts can be deburred and preped for riveting.

F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
Today I located the vertical Zee #1 using the blue bend line on the aft side skin, The Zee was also located down 1 and 1/8th inch from the top of the upper longeron. I then drilled the #40 pilot holes in the Zee using the pilot holes in the aft side skin as a guide for location.
I also up drilled to #30 those holes that will be riveted on this assembly. There is 4 holes that were up drilled that will not be riveted at this time. I placed some blue tape on those clecos to remind me not to rivet those holes.

F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
Today I located the vertical channels #2 thru #5 using the blue lines on the flanges lined up with the pilot holes in the aft side skin, The channels were also located down 1/4th inch from the top of the upper longeron. I then drilled the #40 pilot holes in the channels using the pilot holes in the aft side skin as a guide for location.

F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
Today I drilled #40 pilot holes in F26-02R Right Hand Upper Longeron using the pilot holes in F26-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel Skin to locate the holes. I clecoed the skin to the longeron as I drilled the holes.
I also installed the F27-09 Fairlead Assemblies on the F27-05 #5 Vertical Channels anf F27-01 Vertical Zees.
I trimmed the right hand Vertical Zee and Channels #2 - #5 to properly fit the F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
Then I drew a blue line on the flangs of the vertical channels #2-#5 to be used to align them with the pilot holes in the Aft Side Panel Skin.

F25-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel.
Today I drilled #40 pilot holes in F26-03R Right Hand Lower Longeron using the pilot holes in F26-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel Skin to locate the holes. I clecoed the skin to the longeron as I drilled the holes. I used a piece of scrap .025 to measure the skin over hang. The over hang is so that the bottom skin will be flush with the bottom of the side skin.
I also drilled pilot holes for F26-08 Rudder Stop Plate. I used the side skin pilot holes to locate the holes.

F26-03R Right Hand Lower Longeron.
I used the hack saw to cut the forward end to the two angled cuts per the plans. Using the hack saw I cut the other end to the total length per the plans. I used files and the small scotch brite wheel on the die grinder to smooth and debur the cut ends.

F26-02R Right Hand Upper Longeron.
I used the hack saw to cut the forward end to the one angled cut per the plans. Using the hack saw I cut the other end to the total length per the plans. I used files and the small scotch brite wheel on the die grinder to smooth and debur the cut ends.

F26-01R Right Hand Aft Side Panel Skin.
I marked on the skin the location and shape of two holes. These are the access 4" hole and the rudder cable hole/slot. These are not done as part of the kit. I used a drill to create starter holes. For the rudder cable hole I used the cut off wheel to cut the rough length shape. I then used files to finish the hole/slot. For the access hole I used the nibbler to get the rough shape. I then used a file to finish the shape. I also used the small scotch brite wheel to smooth out and finish the hole. I used the Harbor Freight bending brake to bend the 14 degree bend at the forward end of the skin.

F26-04 Upper Horizontal Splice Plate.
The basic shaped stock was provided with the kit. I used the drill press to clean out the pilot holes. I also used files and the scotch brite wheel to add the 1/16th inch chamfer as required per the plans. Files and the scotch brite wheel were also used to clean, polish and debur all the edges.

F26-05 Upper Vertical Splice Plate.
The basic shaped stock was provided with the kit. I used the drill press to clean out the pilot holes. I used the arbor press to bend the parts to the 7/16" (13.6 deg) per the plans. I also used files and the scotch brite wheel to add the 1/16th inch chamfer as required per the plans. Files and the scotch brite wheel were also used to clean, polish and debur all the edges.

F26-06 Lower Horizontal Splice Plate.
I finished cleaning, polishing and deburring all the edges and surfaces. I used files and the scotch brite wheels.

F26-06 Lower Horizontal Splice Plate.
The basic shape was provided with the kit. I used the drill press to clean out the pilot holes. I used the arbor press to bend the parts to the 11/64" (5.2 deg) per the plans. I also used files and the scotch brite wheel to add the 1/16th inch chamfer as required per the plans. I still need to clean, polish and debur all the edges.

F26-08 Rudder Stop Plate.
I used the band saw to cut 2 Rudder Stop Plates from 1" x .125" stock provided with the kit. I then used the scotch brite wheel to smooth and shape the cut edges. I also used a fine sanding block to clean up and smooth all sides and edges.

F26-07 Lower Vertical Splice Plate.
The basic shaped stock was provided with the kit. I used the drill press to clean out the pilot holes. I used the arbor press to bend the parts to the 7/16" (13.6 deg) per the plans. I also used files and the scotch brite wheel to add the 1/16th inch chamfer as required per the plans. Files and the scotch brite wheel were also used to clean, polish and debur all the edges.

F27-02R F27-02L F27-03R and F27-03L Righ and Left Hand Vertical Channels #2 and #3.
Today I used the files and scotch brite wheel to finish shaping the cut outs to their final size. I also deburred the edges and holes.

F27-01 thru F27-05 L and R,
I cleaned off all the ink markings.

F27-04R and F27-04L Right and Left Hand #4 Vertical Channels.
Today I tried using the Die Grinder with 1/4" Dia X 3/4" Long point to smooth out the rough cut outs to their final size. I found that it did not work as well as using files. I think I will go back to the files for the rest of the channels. I also used the files to debur the edges and the larger holes. I then deburred all the pilot holes.

F27-02 thru F27-05 Right and Left Hand Vertical Channels #2 thru #5.
Today I used the drill press and step drill bits to updrill the 5/16th, 3/4th and 1 inch holes to their final size. I used the band saw to cut the cut out to a rough size.

F27-05R and F27-05L Right and Left Hand Vertical Channel #5.
I used files to shape the cut out to its final shape and size. I also used files to deburred all the edges, corners and the 1 inch hole. Next I will do the same for the remaining Vertical Channels #2 - #4.

F27-03R, F27-03L, F27-04R, F27-04L, F27-05R and F27-05L Right and Left Hand Vertical Channels #3, #4 and #5.
Today I used sharpies to draw the locations of the cut outs and holes.

F27-02R, F27-02L,F27-03R, F27-03L, F27-04R, F27-04L, F27-05R and F27-05L Right and Left Hand Vertical Channels #2 thru #5
Today I also used the drill press to drill all the #40 pilot holes. I also drilled the corners of the cut outs to a rough size radius. The larger holes were also started but will need to be updrilled to there final sizes.

F27-02R and F27-02L Right and Left Hand #2 Vertical Channel.
Today I used sharpies to draw the locations of the cut outs and holes.

F27-01R and F27-01L Right and Left Hand Vertical Zee.
I finished filing the edges and corners to their final shape and size. I used the drill press to drill all the holes to their size and location per the plans. These parts are done except for cleaning off all the ink markings.

F27-01R and F27-01L Right and Left Hand Vertical Zee.
Used Sharpies to mark the layout of the holes and cuts on the Vertical Zees. I then drilled holes for the radius in the corners of the cut outs. I used the band saw to make the rough cuts. I started to file the edges to finnal shape and size. I didn't get to far, only one end of the left hand zee.

F27-01 thru F27-05 Vertical Zee and Vertical Channels 2 -5 -
I used a hack saw to cut the Zee and Channel stock to the rough lengths. I then used the belt sander to trim then to the length per the plans.

F27-09 Fairlead Assembly -
Today I used the band saw to cut the 3/4" Phenolic stock into four 1 9/16" square blocks. I then used the drill press to drill the holes per the plans to fabricate F27-10 Fairlead Mount Blocks. I then inserted the Fairlead halves and attached the retaining clips. This resulted in the completion of the F27-09 Fairlead Assemblies.